<div style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 24px"><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma>Depends on&nbsp;the stud&nbsp;sealant.&nbsp; If loc-tite stay forever was used, it will take some serious torque.&nbsp; Give it a try, though.&nbsp; It's amazing what a good breaker bar, and perhaps a buddy, can&nbsp;do.&nbsp; If you can identify the color of the sealant, I am sure someone on the list can tell you what you are up against.</FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV><DIV><FONT size=3 face=Tahoma>Dave B</FONT></DIV><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px">On 04/30/12, <SPAN>pickle vanagon&lt;greenvanagon@GMAIL.COM&gt;</SPAN> wrote:</SPAN><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 12px">I'm interested in hangining my exhaust in an all-bolts configuration on the<BR>rebuilt 2.1 I have going into my 1.9 van. I plan to use a4 stainless 8x30<BR>bolts.<BR><BR>(My reasons are: it seems both studs and bolts have benefits, but they are<BR>maximized running all-studs or all-bolts. E.g., with all-studs, none of<BR>the holes have thread-wear, with all-bolts, you can do a head gasket<BR>without removing exhaust. All-studs are not an option for me since the 1.9<BR>water pump is in the way of removing the headers when using all-studs.)<BR><BR>My plan is to remove the studs was just to tighten two nuts against each<BR>other on each stud and use that to twist it off. I'm guessing that this<BR>should be easy since the heads (and studs) are brand new. Do I need to use<BR>a stud puller instead? Or should they come out easy with the double-nut?<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Wes<BR></DIV></div>