hey that's cool you could get a new slinger..
I'm curious what a new one costs ...?

as long as gears aren't turning around..
there's on gear oil at the input shaft level I don't think..
so you could fill it , or mostly fill it now.

have fun !
scott

On 5/14/2012 4:34 PM, pickle vanagon wrote:
> I didn't get these most recent emails until after I put it back together.
> I didn't sand down the mating surfaces but I did clean it very carefully
> with brake cleaner.  I think I did a reasonable job applying the sealant as
> I had a very thin and consistent bead squeezed out all around when I
> tightened the parts together.
>
> With the oil slinger my housing was widened out enough that I had trouble
> getting a good press fit even peening like that guy in thesamba thread
> does, *and* using a brand new oil slinger (courtesy of Ken at Vanagain).
> This trick to expand out the disc part sounds like it might have helped
> though.
>
> What I did was sand the mating surfaces of the slinger and the housing with
> coarse sand paper and used a considerable amount of JB Weld, and then
> hammered it in and sat it on a hot radiator for a few hours to harden it
> enough to feel comfortable reassembling.  I'm not filling the transmission
> until tomorrow morning so it will have fully hardened by then.
>
> I also rounded out the fork arms carefully (erring on the side of
> under-doing it, since I don't currently have any clutch chatter.)
>
> Thanks so much for the help guys!  Engine goes back up tomorrow.
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Daryl Christensen
> <daryl@aatransaxle.com>wrote:
>
>> 3 things�****
>>
>> 1. Grey or Black or whatever color..RTV has worked fine for us (and for VW
>> for that matter) for 20+ years as a primary sealant  Scott�Transmissions
>> don�t get so hot and don�t create pressure like an engine does. RTV seals,
>>   gives and fills little divots on these 20 + yr old creatures and gaskets
>> eventually seep. We flat file the surfaces as well after cleaning.****
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> 2. Take the hat shaped slinger and turn it so the �brim� of it is pointing
>> up and is supported so the rest is hanging down in a vise. Then we hammer
>> it to expand the brim (not the rest of it) so it has a tighter fit in the
>> bell housing. Hope that makes sense..Then use the JB and pound it into the
>> housing. I figure the JB will harden and help keep the slinger in place
>> with the new seal pushing down on it while its drying.****
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> 3. Even out the forks on the crosshaft as long as the difference is
>> slight. We round them off and even them up on most every one as they do get
>> worn uneven most times. And never use a gold colored crosshaft..They are
>> very soft and junk.****
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Daryl of AA Transaxle****
>>
>> 425-788-4070****
>>
>> "On the cutting edge of Old technology"****
>>
>> 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk****
>>
>> 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie****
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> *From:* pickle vanagon [mailto:greenvanagon@gmail.com]
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:31 PM
>> *To:* Daryl Christensen
>> *Cc:* vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: removing input shaft seal****
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> When I took the bell housing off today I found the oil slinger was
>> completely loose.  I guess it's good I took it off!
>>
>> My plan is to fix it in the way suggested here:
>> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=342440
>>
>> I will try to look back at the pinion teeth and see what I can see.
>>
>> I looked carefully at the clutch fork for the uneven wear that sometimes
>> occurs.  I can see that the wear is a little bit uneven, but just a
>> little.  How much unevenness should I tolerate?  Is sanding down the less
>> worn one to match a reasonable alternative to replacing the fork?
>>
>> Just one more question... should I do anything to the mating surfaces of
>> the bell housing/transmission other than clean them?  I.e., is some very
>> light sanding a good idea?
>>
>> Thanks again!!
>> Wes
>>
>>
>> ****
>>
>> On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 2:12 PM, Daryl Christensen<daryl@aatransaxle.com>
>> wrote:****
>>
>> If you are brave..look closely at the pinion teeth way back inside and see
>> how its wear pattern looks...Nice and shiny is what you wanna see.****
>>
>>
>> Daryl of AA Transaxle
>> 425-788-4070
>> "On the cutting edge of Old technology"
>> 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk
>> 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>> pickle vanagon****
>>
>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 10:13 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: removing input shaft seal
>>
>> Ok guys thanks for the advice.
>>
>> Ill remove the bell housing and use RTV.
>>
>> Other than the oil slinger, is there anything else easy I should check
>> behind the bell housing?
>> Thanks again!
>> Wes
>> On May 13, 2012 11:13 AM, "Daryl Christensen"<daryl@aatransaxle.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>   Don't worry about the gasket..We haven't used them for years and
>>> always use RTV instead. Just pull it off if that's your preference and
>>> do it the easy way. Also you can check to see if the little slinger is
>>> still solidly in place as a loose one will cause leaks.
>>> T o repl the seal with the bell hsg on, you will need a seal puller to
>>> pry it out and then a longish tube that will go over the length of the
>>> input shaft to tap (hammer) it back in.
>>>   Any time you have to put in a seal and cant see the rear side after
>>> its installed, you should put some grease in the back cavity where the
>>> little spring is at to keep it from popping out from the force of the
>> hammering.
>>> Daryl of AA Transaxle
>>> 425-788-4070
>>> "On the cutting edge of Old technology"
>>> 86 Syncro Westy w/Turbo Zetec in the trunk
>>> 90 Doka Tristar w/2.5 Subie
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>>> Behalf Of pickle vanagon
>>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:25 AM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: removing input shaft seal
>>>
>>> How hard is it to remove the input shaft seal on the transmission
>>> without removing the bell housing?
>>>
>>> I realize the bell housing is easy to remove but I don't have a gasket
>>> for it and can't really afford to wait for one to come in the mail...
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for any tips!
>>> Wes
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ****
>>
>> ** **
>>