Factory oil pressure spec is based on 3 data points: engine speed, temperature and pressure.  2000rpm, 80C, 2 bar.  If you're not using 3 data points, you're guessing. 

After 2 years of looking at my oil temp and pressure gauges I can tell you that water temp is a poor indicator of oil temp.  Therefore, for the purpose of determining engine health, which I though we were discussing, you must use 3 data points or, again, you're guessing. And if a guess is close enough then you're ok. 

Chris.

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Dnia May 15, 2012 o godz. 20:02 Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> napisał(a):

> yes and no..
> oil temp at first tracks coolant temp.
> it's going to be at least that warm.
> then....the more you drive, and the hotter things are ...oil temp goes up and up gradually ..
> so in terms of not exceeding redline oil temp ...a gauge is useful..
> otherwise ..
> you know when it's normal and when it's extra hot ..
> like when ambient temps are high ....under a lot of load , that's when oil temps can get dangerously high without much in the way of an oil cooler.
> otherwise ..you know when it's well warmed up but likley not 'that hot.' 
> 
> oil pressure at an  oil temp  of 'par warmed up' is what of interest. 
> 
> On 5/15/2012 2:22 PM, Chris S. wrote:
>> 
>> Oil pressure gauge is a good start, but you also need oil temp, since the two are very closely related. Half the information is close to no information. 
>> 
>> 
>> Chris.
>> 
>> Wysłane z iPhone'a
>> 
>> Dnia May 15, 2012 o godz. 15:33 Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> napisał(a):
>> 
>>> that's how to tell really how good/bad  it is ..
>>> running it.
>>> oil pressure gauge on it then would be nice too.  That's important info
>>> on gauging engine condition and life remaining of course.
>>> 
>>> On 5/15/2012 7:59 AM, Alistair Bell wrote:
>>>> will do. I bet some of the lifters will be collapsed, motor has been sitting as is for a few years.
>>>> 
>>>> Depending on the comp. test results, I might swap the engine in early next month. I'll be dropping trans and engine on my van then (for other reasons) and the current engine has a couple of annoying leaks that need dealing with. So I might gamble with the spare while I fix up the other one.
>>>> 
>>>> alistair
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On 2012-05-15, at 4:49 AM, Kenneth Lewis wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Alistar,
>>>>> Pull the rocker arms and look for mushrooming valve stem ends. If you are
>>>>> not going to use the engine for a while, just leave them off to relieve
>>>>> pressure on the springs and hydraulic lifters. Check for collapsed or
>>>>> spongy lifters.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Ken
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mon, May 14, 2012 4:11 pm, Alistair Bell wrote:
>>>>>> when engine on bench?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I had to move my spare engine, again, while working in the barn.  I need
>>>>>> to decide what to do with it. Came as a spare with my syncro. was given to
>>>>>> the seller by a friend. Supposedly pulled from van to make way for
>>>>>> conversion.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What I can see upon casual observation:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> - oil leak from base of crankcase breather tower (seen that before!)
>>>>>> - minor oil weeping from one valve cover
>>>>>> - pushrod tubes shiny, oil and rust free
>>>>>> - oil pump endplay 0.004" (good)
>>>>>> - water pump seized
>>>>>> - crank can be rotated, there is compression. I suppose I could rig up my
>>>>>> spare bellhousing and starter to spin the bugger and test compression.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> So what else can I look at apart from pulling the heads?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> alistair
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>