If the owner needs to dive in that far in, I have read that one can add a
*thin* brass shim (on same side as screw) between the bottom of a given
heater element and the tube it slides into. This may aid in providing more
contact between the element and the tube which is up against the chemical
containing pipe. Just tossing the idea out there. Regardless.....

As per Davids comment, if the brass screw is missing, the element won't be
as effective in doing the job. A well intended PO could easily loose this
screw and not give it a second thought.

Image shows my old 182A with "all in one" elements. 182B has AC and DC
elements each in its' own separate tube:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-puS0D4JmxV0/Sas2SIS_IBI/AAAAAAAADrk/Bxi4sb7GaoM/s720/DometicExhaustChemicalTubes.jpg

Neil.

On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 10:27 AM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> Jon, the AC and DC heaters are each rated 85 watts;
>

> It's possible for there to be problems with the heater itself, but
> much less likely.  One thing to check, though, would be that it's
> properly inserted and secured in its tube attached to the boiler.
>
> Yours,
> David
>

--
Neil n

65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly  http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp

'88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.

'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:

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