Thanks Mike, David, and Loren.

Loren: I soldered two 10uf caps to the AFM internal connections. Tricky so
end result not 100% I'll either remove the connector terminals, piggy back
cap to them or use a wire stripper to pull back wire casing to do same.

I'd even be tempted to put a switch in for testing purposes.

David: Polarity. Yes! Saw discussions about whether or not the tantalum cap
was polarity sensitive. I mark the cap with a sharpie to help avoid any
polarity issue. The factory mark is small and on my 10uf caps, the " + "
sign was not really situated directly over the lead. Google helped with
that.

Mike: I see your point. The part may work now, but over time..... On that
note:

when comparing a 10 volt cap to a 25 volt cap, does the 25 volt cap produce
less heat while being used? If so, I'd go that route. Especially since I'll
be installing cap under the AFM connector boot.

Thanks people,

Neil.

On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 8:24 AM, Loren Busch <starwagen@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Mon, Jun 11, 2012 at 5:52 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> FWIW to others, soldering two 10uf caps in parallel to connectors inside
>> AFM, is a minor PITA. New plan is to solder them at leads pre connector.
>>
>
> Neil, there is more room to work and a larger area for the capacitors if
> they are soldered into place in the connector on the cable.  Drawback: You
> can't take it out of the van to do the work.
>

--
Neil n

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