Orin,

I don't know what you weigh,m but you can use a cheater bar and  our own
weifht. You just have to do some math. You can use a length of pipe
slipped down on a 3/4 drive handle and move your weight back and fourth
on the pipe to get the torque or force just right. Force (torque) equals
the length of the bar times the force applied ie, your weight. If you
need 360 ft/lbs then you can solve for where along that pipe your need
to hang your weight.

Where F(orce)= L(ength in feet) X Weight

Then F=LxW

or,

360=Lx180

Remembering that 1(one) times 1(one) is still 1(one)

Then divide both sides of the equation by the weight 180 which will
reduce the 180 figure to 1(one).

360/180=Lx180/180

That is 360 divided by 180 is equal to 180 divided by 180

The result is that the 180 divided by 180 is 1(one)

Thus, 360/180=Lx(180/180)_

or,

360/180=Lx(1)

Or 360/180=L(ength in feet)

Then 2=L(feet)

So 180 lbs (your weight) applied at two feet from the center of the hub
would produce 360 foot lbs of twisting motion or torque.

Sorry for being a bit pedantic here - but I needed the mental exercise too.

Good Luck.

John

On 7/29/2012 12:03 AM, orin wrote:
> Hey everyone!
>
> I'm looking for advice with the rear axle nut.  I can't seem to find a 46mm
> socket anywhere locally and I'd like to keep going with my work tomorrow
> (checking the rear bearings), has anyone here used a 1 and 13/16" SAE
> socket?  It seems like the conversion is almost perfect.  Any thoughts?
>
> Also, when it comes time to torque this beast down, what to use?  I was
> looking at a 1" torque wrench in a shop but it only goes to 300 ft lbs and
> I think the target is 360 ft lbs.  If anyone with experience might like to
> share a tip or two...  Thanks a lot!!
>
> Orin
>
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>
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