Your thermocouple sounds fine.� The clicking after the flame goes out is the valve closing off the gas, which happens after the flame has goine out..� it only takes 1 millivolt to keep that valve open.� The thermocouple will put out 30 millivolts if it is very strong.� Mine goes down as low as 8 when the fridge is running and it�works�fine, just a weak thermocouple and that doesn't affect cooling.� The lower voltage affects the LED not being as bright.
�
I hav found it most helpful to hook up the voltmeter because the reading is more sensitive and tells you exaclty when the flame lights and when it goes out.� The thermocouple has a delay while it heats up and cools down which makes the LED not as responsive.� You can't try to hold the leads by hand while you are messing with the fridge.� Make sure the connections to the voltmeter are secure.� Works awesome for seeing how long and under what conditions the fridge lights.� 
�
Everything is probably fine with your fridge except a leak in the flue or the burner box.� But that mostly causes problems with it blowing out while driving or with wind.� Less so when just sitting there, but still harder to light.� The jet gets clogged sometime too but if it is lighting yours sounds fine.
�
I've fouind running it on 12V or 110- for 15 minutes is enough to get�the air moving (hot rising, and fresh air�sinking) so it should stay lit.
�
Most of the time you are flooding the chamber if you aren't sure when the pilot is lit or not.� You have to wait for it to clear out or pump the heck out of it to clear it.� The voltmeter makes that a lot less frustrating because the second the voltage starts to drop you know the flame is out and you shoudl stop holding the gas button down.

________________________________
From: Leonard Sitongia <sitongia@ONEBEAM.NET>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2012 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: Refrigerator gasket and flame goes out remedies

On Sun, 05 Aug 2012 10:30:09 -0600, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net>
wrote:

>� Can I power the fridge on 110v
> and use water to test it or does that risk damaging the thermocouple
> sensor, especially since there is fraying.
>� I don't understand the test you're contemplating.� Please be much more
> specific.� The thermocouple does not enter into 110 V operation in any
> way.

Thank you for your lengthy answers.� I really appreciate that.� Regarding
the thermocouple, I assumed the fridge would need to be operating to test
the thermocouple.� I was wondering how to troubleshoot it.� Measure
conductivity through it with it in hot water and ice water?� But, since
you've pointed out that I'm probably talking about the sparker (which I
need to check to make sure I know what I'm talking about), I shouldn't
worry about the thermocouple and I know the sparker works, but I'll put
some silicone on it.

--
==Leonard