Hi,

  I have the Dometic 182 refrigerator out of my Westy and I'm trying to
address the problem in that it won't stay lit. Spark is okay. Ignites.
After minutes, the flame goes out.

  There was a bug in the burn box, but it was just a loose bug, not
plugging any holes.

  The thermocouple wire insulation is frayed at the point where it makes a
bend to the burn box. Looks like the wire is intact. Maybe I should
replace it. How can I test it on a bench? Can I power the fridge on 110v
and use water to test it or does that risk damaging the thermocouple
sensor, especially since there is fraying.

  I'm also doing whatever I can to help it to work better. I've done the
air pump modifications, drilling the hole out and adding the one-way
valve. I've also replaced the back-side fin fan with the Go Westy box fan.

  The gasket (the one with the six screws through it) on the burn box had
cracks. I've used Ultra Copper high-temp silicone to REPLACE the gasket.
Now I just re-read a site that suggests the silicone be used ON the old
gasket. My first QUESTION is, did I screw up? I thought that the silicone
is a gasket MAKER, not a sealant. Do I need to put the old gasket in WITH
the sealant on both sides of it?

  My other QUESTIONS are regarding the troubleshooting of this problem from
the Dometic Service Manual (RM182B Edition 2, August 1982). The chart on
p. 10 relates possible causes referring to parts that I don't have an ID
for.

  The "safety valve" is connected to the button you hold in while lighting,
right? It has a "valve magnet"? How can I troubleshoot this?

  Where is there "gauze in the burner head"? When I took the burn box
apart, there's a tube with slots in one end, which is where I assume the
flame is. Is there supposed to be gauze in that tube?

  Where is the "By-pass flame"?

  Thanks for your help!

--
==Leonard