Don, you didn't "bother me"-I was just giving another  less expensive
option for the non Porsche racing types if they wanted to keep their
Vanagon from getting stolen or crashing into a wall.

YMMV.

Cheers,

Mr.BZ-I do use the Porch fave Swepco 201

On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 7:27 PM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote:

>   Well geeze, guys....sorry I bothered you trying to help by posting an
> option that I know exists.   sigh...
>
>    I don't know the specific (part #?) switch that might go into any
> particular application.  There are lots of them listed with various
> configurations and specs.  You'd have to read up and decide.  There seems
> to be room for most all of the offerings in that Pegassus Racing or Summit
> Racing, or JC Whitney and yes....even Harbor Freight.
>
>    The thing about Harbor Freight and JC W.....their quality control sucks!
>   If you are actually going to use something, depend on having it work
> every time, I'd skip Harbor Freight...
>
>   For something like a Battery cut-off switch...on a race car they are
> tested at each track outing at the Tech Inspection .You drive up and the
> Tech guys reach out and switch off your "Power" switch, to see if it
> actually will work, just in case  a corner worker has to use it later in
> the day to prevent an explosion or something, should you crash or be
> crashed......    Say you mounted  one of the H.F. ones and it doesn't
> work......You fail the tech inspection, right there...You'll then miss your
> race...Dumb.  You could be out a whole lot of time and money because you
> tried to save a few bucks on a cheap switch.....Or your car could 'not
> start'  Yeah, there isn't much to a switch...but HF manages to screw up
> even bulb sockets with NO moving parts, so....
>
>     I don't need to kill all the power in my vanagon very often, and when I
> do it doesn't bother me to pull the battery terminals...Yeah, a external
> main battery switch would be handy..but I haven't found the time or a
> pressing need for one yet.
>
>   If I ever do, I think I will probably select a marine type Battery switch
> with positions for  "Batt A/ Batt B/ Both batt/ and Batt OFF"
> options...Those are clunky and big and expensive but they do the things I
> would want....For now, I get by with a mechanical relay ala Ford
> pickup/camper option and pulling the terminals of the battery's.
>
>   Don Hanson
> On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 7:52 AM, Tom Buese <tantonbz@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Those kill switches look identical to ones @ HF which I believe I paid
> > about $3 for a battery shutoff switch.
> > Must be the difference between an Apple & a Samsung?
> >
> > YMMV,
> >
> > Mr. BZ-never got around to installing
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 9:43 AM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
> >
> > > oh that's all great don, but why not tell us which models fit vanagons,
> > > especially vanagons with battery under front passenger seat.
> > >
> > > alistair
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On 2012-08-24, at 9:46 PM, Don Hanson wrote:
> > >
> > > >  Most of the racer supply houses have main electrical switches that
> can
> > > > take all the power from the vehicle.  They are required on racecars.
> > > Lots
> > > > are activated with a pull handle that is wired to be accessable
> outside
> > > the
> > > > vehicle in the event of a crash where the driver might be
> unconscious,
> > > > etc....The track crew can see this red handle clearly marked, jerk
> it,
> > > and
> > > > all the power is cut...
> > > >
> > > >   Many of these switches have a removable "key"..too.     It would
> be a
> > > > simple task to install one near the passenger seat, into the main
> > battery
> > > > area....with the wire pull for use to the outside of a race car, you
> > > could
> > > > also have a mechanical 'remote' switch.....
> > > >
> > > >  If this link works....
> > > > https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SWITCHBATT
> > > >
> > > >   They even have some that have a feature to save your
> > > > alternator...whatever that means....
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Derek Drew <derekdrew@derekmail.com
> >
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> How many amps is that thing rated for?
> > > >>
> > > >> Also, have you got a before and after voltage drop during starting?
> > > >>
> > > >> If we get positive answers to these questions, I think this is
> really
> > > >> a great device, and may even be better than a bucket full of relays,
> > > >> isolators, and combiners.
> > > >>
> > > >> The reason I say this is because I have been using this method for
> > > >> years, only instead of a switch, I have just been grabbing the
> > > >> terminal and shoving it on and off the battery as needed and to my
> > > >> astonishment, it seems to work really well to do it that way however
> > > >> goofy it sounds.
> > > >>
> > > >> And I used to use relays and love relays! But it is hard to find
> good
> > > >> practical relays relay rated at 400 amps. (Winch, 30amp inverter).
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> At 06:29 PM 8/24/2012, you wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> The recent posts on Yahoo syncro group and the Samba about serious
> > > >>> electrical faults causing fires and or van moving by itself, plus a
> > > >>> timely trip to Princess Auto got me a kill switch for main battery
> > > >>>
> > > >>> http://shufti.wordpress.com/**2012/08/24/vanagon-main-**
> > > >>> battery-kill-switch/<
> > >
> http://shufti.wordpress.com/2012/08/24/vanagon-main-battery-kill-switch/
> > >
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> alistair
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >> ______________________________**_________________
> > > >> Derek Drew
> > > >> Washington DC / New York
> > > >> derekdrew@derekmail.com
> > > >> Email is best normally but...
> > > >> PHONE: 202-966-7907 (Call the number at left normally)
> > > >> (alt/cell for diligent calling only): 703-408-1532
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Tom Buese
> >
>

--
Tom Buese