David,

Brilliantly useful advice, as always, thanks!

The LEDs do work. I also did check out those fuses. The red one is nicely
browned on either end, so I'm going to replace it. All of those type fuses
are currently away in my girls' BMWs. One daughter is coming down next
week, so I'll grab some from her.

I'll see if I can track the other things down this weekend.

Thanks again!
Marc

On Fri, Oct 5, 2012 at 5:52 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> At 04:58 PM 10/5/2012, Marc Perdue wrote:
>
> What year are we talking about?
>
> Assuming you're talking about '84 or newer...
>
>
>  Is there a fuse for the water pump for the sink? Or do the pumps tend to
>> just stop after a while? I looked around under the sink briefly last
>> night,
>> but it was getting dark and I was getting hungry...
>>
>
> If the LED panel works then the fuse is not the problem.  Dake Collins and
> I just fixed his.  He had a bad pump, a broken wire going to the faucet,
> and a bad connection from the ring terminal at the faucet to the wire.
>
> You'll have to get a pin and trace the voltages and or resistances.
>
> Resistance across the motor (leads unplugged, they're the blue and brown
> connected to the two yellows in the secret compartment) should be a few
> ohms.  If it's a few hundred kilohms instead, the pump is bad.
>
> There should be 12 volts between the two yellow wires when the faucet is
> turned on.  If not, open the faucet and check for 12 V to ground on one of
> the terminalsl  If none, check for 12 V between one of the terminals that
> switch is plugged into and ground.  If you find it, then remove the city
> water and tank water lines from the faucet, get your pin and start probing
> the wires to find the break.  Start by checkin between the ring terminals
> and the wire half an inch away.
>
> Yours,
> David
>