

| Subject: | <No subject> |
| From: | David Beierl |
| Date: | Tue, 6 Nov 2012 20:36:02 -0500 |
At 06:08 PM 11/6/2012, neil n wrote: >Will the XLPE not take well to soldering? Any other reasons to not use >it? (this will be used with headlight upgrade) Soldering should be fine although I must emphasize that you must have a sound mechanical joint (Western Union splice for example) *before* soldering as solder is not load-bearing. I personally favor marine-grade butt crimp connectors with shrink tube/glue to seal against any entry; but regular 3M, T&B Answorth or other good quality butt connectors should be ok. Nylon insulation is better than vinyl, but either is ok for automotive use. Stress relief must be carried up the wire beyond the point where any solder has wicked, as otherwise there will be a hard spot that will break prematurely. I have to warn against using XLPE wire for this application. XLPE is meant to be run in a raceway, for wiring a switchboard or similar low-vibration applications. Automotive use is a very severe environment, and automotive wire has 19 strands (in the medium sizes) for a reason. Ref: http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=XLPE-Control-Cable-UL-SIS-XHHW-2 http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=Type-GPT If you really want to do it up brown, marine tinned wire like http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=GPTM-Tinned-Copper will make your life easier down the road, but it isn't cheap. Yours, DAvid Yours, David
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