Good point. I was considering using Eastwood's Lead free product:
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-basic-lead-free-body-solder-kit-with-dvd.html
to install the rear wheel arch panel.  I was going to use it to do the job
as both solder and seam sealer. Now I am not so sure.

Comments?

Ken

On Wed, November 21, 2012 9:41 pm, Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> A 1/32 or 1/64 inch crack lets in water and leads to rust and paint
> failure.
> I've got a seam where a professional body shop used polyester filler and
> rust bubbles are starting.  The whole rig flexes all the time.  Modern
> cars
> have fewer and shorter seams with more spot welds and lead is used to seal
> them, which also fuses tightly and flexes a tiny amount due to its
> malleability.  It will crack though if the joint isn't strong.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Liberte, Joel
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 12:29 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: seam sealer
>
> That would also suggest not welding the seams together if they are
> flexing,
> but do they really have to and how much do they really
> flex/expand/contract?
> That would also effect the seam sealer choice if it's considerably, which
> I
> highly doubt would be the case.
>
> Joel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Stuart MacMillan
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 12:07 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: seam sealer
>
> Yes, automotive seam sealer sticks better and flexes more so it doesn't
> detach or crack. Those panels do flex, and the seam opens and closes
> slightly. And, it's sandable and paintable.
>
> Stuart
>
>