Are there really vans out there that have not had the heater boxes opened
yet?

Mine did just fine with a wood chisel and hammer one tap and they separated.

Mark in AK

On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 7:27 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:

> At 08:55 PM 12/18/2012, Mike B wrote:
>
>> crooked that screws won't hold it, then the clips may not help either!
>>
>
> The clips have their own well-constructed molded seats, not related
> to the sonic-welded tabs.  Incidentally they're a species of J-clip
> as well, range maybe ten feet?  Not sure - I never found the one that
> went flying off into the driveway.
>
>
>  How about a dremel rotary saw or cutoff wheel for the tabs?
>>
>
> Dremel saws scare the snot out of me, even with a guard.  I have
> several but rarely use them (and you can't run them slow enough to
> cut metal, the heat just wipes the teeth right off them).  OTOH I
> love the cutoff wheels, both the thin unreinforced and the
> fiber-reinforced ones for when the others won't do.  As well as being
> very effective they're quite inexpensive, unlike most Dremel bits and
> grinding points which cost a good bit to use.  Just make sure that
> you work away from sharp edges and not toward them, 'cause the edge
> will peel them down to nothing quick as quick.  If used very gently
> to avoid grooving, you can use them to grind surfaces.  I have little
> use for the "heavy-duty" unreinforced ones as the kerf is much
> thicker, cutting slower and they put excessive heat in the
> workpiece.  And unlike the thin ones, when they break sometimes the
> chips are heavy enough to sting.
>
> But using cutoff wheels for plastic is iffy, as the plastic
> melts.  Dremel does have a newer quick-release series of cutoff
> wheels which are very easy to use but IMO inferior to the plain ones
> with a screw arbor; one of those wheels is designated for plastic.  I
> have one but no experience with it.  Other than the higher price, my
> main complaint about the quick-mount ones is that the centering isn't
> accurate or repeatable as there's too much clearance between the
> wheel and arbor.
>
> The Dremel router bits might work well to eat away the tabs.  That's
> another place where Dremel bit off more than it could chew in terms
> of the rigidity of the machine, but I keep my spare tool mounted in
> their router table and use the small rounding-over bit to quickly
> take the curse off wooden edges.  Their plain router adapter
> incidentally is somewhat useful, but the more expensive plunge router
> adapter is total junk.
>
> Their buzz-plane adapter (only fits the XLR) is another terrifying
> tool, but it would certainly work on the tabs.
>
> For those tabs, though, a jeweler's saw with a coarse (#6-#8, say?)
> blade would go through them like butter.  Come to think of it, I
> probably used this Stanley flush-trimming saw which is flexible,
> razor-sharp and cuts on the pull stroke.  The design is clearly
> influenced by Japanese saws, and it's an absolute pleasure to use as
> intended.  There's no set so it won't scar the surface you're cutting
> against, but the teeth are deep to give chip clearance.  Probably
> about five strokes to take off one of those
> tabs.
> http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-**20-331-4-Inch-Points-Flush/dp/**B00002X2BT<http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-331-4-Inch-Points-Flush/dp/B00002X2BT>
> A fine coping saw would do almost as well.
>
> Yrs,
> d
>
>
> --
> David Beierl -- dbeierl@attglobal.net
>