All fine, ....and.........you don't need the key on to do this test ,
unless you also want the engine to start.

On 12/15/2012 1:38 PM, Mike B wrote:
> You could try this, if you're good with electrical stuff and on a budget.
>   Turn the key to "on" (not 'start') and using a screwdriver, short
> from the starter battery positive post to the solenoid push-on terminal
> to check if the starter turns the engine over. If it does, it's a
> problem in the key to solenoid circuitry.  If it doesn't, short from the
> starter batt positive terminal to the starter motor lead (bottom of the
> solenoid) to check if the starter motor spins freely (it won't engage
> the flywheel).  If it does, the solenoid is defective and can be
> replaced or rebuilt separately.  If it doesn't, the starter motor is
> defective and can be replaced or rebuilt.  I used this troubleshooting
> technique to locate a malfunctioning solenoid on my 1959 6V
> screw-terminal starter (no longer available), and removed it and took it
> apart by unsoldering the end and cleaning and lubricating the solenoid
> piston/ cylinder and internal heavy solid copper relay contacts. I did
> have to drill out 4 rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts (easy
> future service?) on this antique starter, but the late ones have
> threaded posts and solder connections, so they can be rebuilt. Usually
> just a general cleaning and lube will make work like new again. The
> problem with my old one was that carbon/dirt got in between the close
> clearances inside and the oil turned to sticky tar over 50+ years.  The
> oil used to lube the starter/ solenoid is critical that it be a high
> temp lube, as it gets very hot during use.   The solenoid has two
> independent windings inside,  the big main one that has the power to
> pull the solenoid piston in, along with the bendix mechanism that,
> through a forked lever, throws the starter gear into the flywheel teeth.
>   There's also a smaller "helper" winding that helps hold the solenoid
> in as long as the key is in the start position.  It's this winding that
> shows up as a small short while the solenoid is pulled in, as it
> completes a circuit from the winding to the solenoid housing while
> engaged.
>
> Mike B.
>
> On 12/15/2012 3:42 PM, neil n wrote:
>> '88, stock 2.1
>>
>> I somewhat cross posted here in an attempt to start a new thread.
>>
>> I was referring to the ICU. It is strapped to the intake snorkel.  ECU
>> is in stock location, no parts needed.
>>
>> Somewhere buried in my first thread I mentioned that my NEW remote
>> starter switch tested bad.
>>
>> Thankfully I had the where with all to test it before using it!
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 15, 2012 at 12:30 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans
>> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>
>>> what year is the van please ?
>>> now that I read 'ecu cable-strapped to intake snorkle'  it's
>>> sounding like a
>>> 1.9 wbxr.
>>> Do you need a proper ECU mounting bracket from a 1.9 wbxr vanagon ?
>>>
>>> I still go for the Remote Starter Switch test right away .. ( like
>>> in the
>>> fist 4 minutes of 'starter-seems-dead' troubleshooting.
>>> It takes the whole rest of the car out of the picture ..
>>> Gets it down to just battery, starter, battery and ground cables,
>>> thus eliminating and bypassing numerous possible weak areas.
>>> Helps you know where to look for the real problem
>>>
>>> 'stubsitute and bypass' is a very useful diagnostic strategy often.
>>> dig out your remote stater switch is my suggestion.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/15/2012 11:31 AM, neil n wrote:
>>> ..... Maybe
>>> cable strapping the ICU (on its side) to the intake snorkel duct put
>>> it in a poor position?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Neil n
>>
>> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>>
>> '88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
>>
>> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>>
>> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>>
>