ditto that ..
and RS is a fantastic gasket sealer.
I'd use it to seal the rubber gaskets even ...
but not to fill in missing metal.
that would be a purely get-you-home-from-meixico emergency repair.

Scott
turbovans.com
On 1/1/2013 1:08 PM, Mike B wrote:
> I've never used the Right Stuff, so I can't attest to the properties of
> it.  The JB weld is being used to replace lost metal and make a smooth
> surface for rubber gasket to seat against.  You're not trying to make a
> gasket, the way a sealant can.  The epoxy ends up making a new hard
> surface, where the sealants will only act as a filling adhesive. Yes
> you'll always need a new seal and some sealant use is appropriate, but
> not as a total replacement for the seal or the lost metal.  I'd be
> afraid to experiment with RS in place of JB, especially in light of the
> labor required to re-accomplish the task if it fails to seal. Even
> worse, if it blows out under temp and pressure, you can ruin the
> engine.  I stand by the use of JB for corrosion repair on VW heads and
> cases, but as you said, not in the cylinder seal area of the head.
>
> Mike B.
>
> On 1/1/2013 3:25 PM, neil n wrote:
>> Checking Ben's web pages (benplace.com) he writes of JB.
>>
>> http://benplace.com/head_check.htm
>>
>> So JB is not to be used on the head where the barrel sits? (higher
>> heat, wider heat cycling destroys the JB?)
>>
>> If a head surface where the coolant gasket sits has minor pitting, can
>> the "Right Stuff" be used to fill those voids?  Not saying JB isn't
>> any good (obviously it works) but if one is using RS with a new
>> coolant seal.....
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 2:15 PM, Mike B <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I've read about using JB Weld on the pitting and have repaired a few
>>> WBX
>>> myself this way.  I recommend glass-beading of the corroded areas of
>>> the
>>> outer rubber gasket area until you've got all of the corrosion out down
>>> to the bottom of the pits.  Then, multiple coats of JB Weld, gradually
>>> building up a perfect surface, followed by a good flat-sanding of the
>>> repaired areas.  It may take a few days of applying epoxy, drying time,
>>> then sanding to get the job done well.   I have found that not only is
>>> this an excellent repair method, but that it goes one step further in
>>> preventing the corrosion from returning.  I highly recommend it from
>>> personal experience over years of Vanagon ownership.  I've heard that
>>> the same method is used even on Jaguar cylinder heads.
>>>
>>> Mike B.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/30/2012 2:56 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>>>> I've seen some terribly pitted cylinder heads.
>>>> and they are not like a normal headcylinder head in which you can just
>>>> have the machine shop take off say 6 thousandths.
>>>> The like amount would have to be taken off where the metal rings sit,
>>>> around the combustion chamber.
>>>> Most machine shops are not set up to do that .
>>>> Mo' betta to replace head gaskets when they are getting due.
>>>> The outer ones are not even really head gaskets in the conventional
>>>> sense.
>>>> They're outer coolant retaining gaskets.
>