Inspecting suspension parts is not a difficult science or art. Lift the
front so wheels are off the ground and then grab each tire top/bottom, and
then side to side and move them hard. If anything is loose it will be
obvious. For the lower ball joints,, the check them get a large pair of
grove lock (Channel Lock) pliers. Again with the wheels suspended grab the
upper and lower mounts and squeeze. If much more than 1/8" play they are
really toast. New there is no play and after pressing they are often stiff.
The lower ball joints really support all the weight on the front. The uppers
really just keep the tire upright. The lower joints are the same for both
the 2WD and Syncro. On the 4WD the load is in tension, pulling them apart.
On the 2WD the load pushes them together. (Did I get that right?) Either
ball joint or a tire rod separation makes for a wonderful event. You will
come to a sudden stop, You just don't know where.

As for the rubber stuff just look for signs of distortion or the bushings
not being where they should be. Sometimes the lower control arm mounts have
moved to the point the arm is wearing the bracket on the chassis. Then for
fun the bolt and bushing sleeve have corroded as one and will need to be cut
out. That sleeve really puts up a fight for the saw all. And then get those
radius rod mounts.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
John Goubeaux
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2013 9:18 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Front End Suspension - 1985

  I too am in the planning stages of front end part(s) replacement.

SO,

Q:  taking into account what Scott says about not replacing too many items
at once ( especially when unsure  what is actually worn & where the noise
are coming from) Does it not make sense to replace the Top Ball Joints and
the Upper control Arm bushings in one session ( these both appear to be part
of the same removal steps) with the top ball joints being likely to have
worn before the lowers ??

Then evaluate after that before tackling the lower Ball joints and bushings
on the bottom end.

I ask this b/c I can see the downside to taking everything apart and
assuming that replacing all the bushings at once will automatically be
better when the original parts might in fact be OK. Of course I am assuming
to do all the work myself, where labor costs and time are not necessarily
costing me, AND  I do not mind doing the work in sections.

Of course I can see that if someone is doing a "complete restore" and has a
lot of time and space and maybe does not need the vehicle, they might opt to
take it all apart and do a complete replacement of everything at once. But
still I see the point Scott is making and it makes sense to me and my
situation.

-john

On 1/9/2013 5:25 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
> I'd call those 'washers' or 'dished washers' ..
> they are not any kind of 'plate' really.
>
> it's hardly a wear item unless yours are very rusted.
>
> things are not always better when people replace too many things at once.
> naturally I account for 'labor penalty' ..
> like if it's far harder to do something else later..
> do it now of course ..
> otherwise ...original high quality parts in good condition ....'tis
> good, and new cheaper stuff may not be as good .
>
> I take pride in spreading themoney and effort out to best advantage..
> like do 'just the right thing' and nomore.
> that takes more skill too.
>
>
>
>
> On 1/9/2013 12:15 PM, Jeff Lincoln wrote:
>> Stabilizer Bar washer plate - http://www.busdepot.com/251411043
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff
>> '85 GL (Gertie)
>> '78 Bus (Melissa) Patty's Bus
>>