what does 'reduces the required torqueby 40 % , in the case of
anti-seize'  really mean?

doe that mean if one uses anti-sieze and then torques to 120 ft lbs
...the actual reading will be .......?
or ....
does that mean it's handy to use anti-seize so the nuts and bolts don't
have to be so tight ..
or what ?
what does that actually mean 'reduces the required torque' ?

sounds like a good thing stated that way.

On 1/7/2013 9:52 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Unless your very heavy the stock lug wrench doesn't cut it, neither will a
> hammer drill. If you plan on doing any amount of work on your own a torque
> wrench is an extremely valuable investment.
> In general lug nuts/bolts should not be lubricated. Also, lug nuts do have a
> life limit. Proper torque for the Vanagon (dry or as received) is ~120
> ft/lbs. Lubrication of the threads or face reduces this. Some anti-seizes
> can reduce required torque as much as 40%. Over torqueing will destroy the
> threads in the front rotors or break/strip the studs/nuts in the rear or
> Syncro fronts. Fretting corrosion can make later removal very difficult. Get
> a nice breaker bar and socket and keep this in the van for roadside wheel
> changes. This will work better than a cross style lug wrench. After
> installing tires drive a short distance and check torque again.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Peter Krogh
> Sent: Tuesday, January 8, 2013 12:31 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Wheel tightening technique
>
> It's amazing how much chatter lugnuts can stir up.
> ;-)
>
> So I have another question, regarding proper wheel tightening technique. I
> had an alarming event a couple weeks ago when my recently-changed spare
> wheel came loose while driving - maybe 100 miles after I had put it on.  (I
> heard rumbling from the wheel area that made me think of a failed wheel
> bearing. I pulled over to find front lug bolts backed out by 1/8 inch ). It
> made me wonder how that could have happened (and how to stop it in the
> future.)
>
> I'm soon swapping the original steelies and dry-rotted Vancos with some
> Hankooks mounted on 14" Carat alloys. Mounting with the T3 lugs.
>
> Typically, I take my car to a tire shop, but I wanted to try this myself. I
> have bottle jack, jackstands, a newly cleaned and organized garage, and a
> hammer drill. (It's an old electric beast, with a 5-setting clutch and a
> pretty good amount of torque).
>
> The tire loosening incident has me a little spooked.  I thought I did it
> correctly - put tire on wheel and tighten lugnuts as much as possible,
> working in a crosswise sequence.I put the car down on the ground for the
> final tightening sequence. (I was using stock lugwrench.)  How does that
> come to be rumbly loose 100 miles later?
>
> Should I use the hammer drill (after proper threading)?  A torque wrench?
> (which I don't own, but would be pretty happy to acquire). Any treatment to
> the bolts/nuts?  Advisable period for reinspection?
>
> Any insight appreciated.
> Peter
>