Hi Ryan.

Haven't measured current draw of ECU and coil.

Given the difference in wire gauge (#16 AWG vs Jetta coil wire of 2.5 mm),
I assumed the Jetta coil and ECU on the 2.5 mm wire drew more current. But.
You make a great point re: measuring. Maybe the #16 wire could handle the
load. (though it's a long wire)

re: resistor. Thanks.

Other thought. Shunt in a relay to carry 15 power to cluster?  P. 97.14
Bentley like this?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mwLbMrIPNeg/UQXDp5wC82I/AAAAAAAAGts/KoET1qeFF3M/s576/15%2520Relay%25202.jpg

Neil.

On Sun, Jan 27, 2013 at 1:10 PM, Ryan Press <ryan@presslab.us> wrote:

> Hi Neil,
>
> I think it would help if we knew how much current the ECU actually draws,
> and how much the coil draws.  Can you measure these with an ammeter both
> while running and not?  Did you add this relay/wiring because you actually
> had problems or because you thought there could be problems?
>
> The way I was thinking of adding the resistor to the coil would be in
> parallel.  It would load the circuit at all times, but the coil would still
> see pretty much the same voltage when energized.  It would be a kludge; I'm
> sure there's a better way.
>
> Ryan
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 25, 2013 at 11:08 AM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Very good points. Much appreciated.
>>
>> This morning, I realized that yes; Su as an ign. switch was a bad idea.
>>
>> I think someone posted this idea a while ago, but I too wondered if a
>> surge protected relay would suffice. Or as you suggest, use a resistor
>> somehow. Seems the surge protected relay would be best. If not.....
>>
>> If a resistor was wired in parallel across 85-86 of the relay, would
>> this added resistance only affect that circuit once the coil is
>> de-energized? i.e. does that added resistance affect the coils ability
>> to keep the switch closed when in use?
>>
>> My electrical knowledge is made up of bits and pieces, so apologies if
>> I'm asking questions in a poor way.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 25, 2013 at 10:43 AM, Ryan Press <ryan@presslab.us> wrote:
>>
>>
>> > Back on topic, I would think a strategically placed diode somewhere
>> would
>> > keep the relay from staying on with the ignition off.  If that is not
>> > possible perhaps the brute force method of putting an additional load
>> > resistor across the relay's winding would do it.
>> >
>> > Powering the engine with just the key in is dangerous.  Consider this
>> > scenario which has happened to me before:  Going down a large hill my
>> > throttle cable was frozen with ice at part throttle.  I was able to
>> leave it
>> > in gear and turn the key off, while maintaining all normal functions,
>> until
>> > I was able to find a pull-out.  If I would have needed to remove the
>> key, my
>> > steering would lock, and I would end up over the hill.  The other option
>> > would be to pop it in neutral, but then the engine would be bouncing
>> off the
>> > rev-limiter.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Neil n
>>
>> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly  http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>>
>> '88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
>>
>> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>>
>> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>>
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>>
>
>

--
Neil n

65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly  http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp

'88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.

'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines