Neil,

I'm getting in on this late, and half of this thread is on my computer
at my shop - so I don't have the whole story of what the problem is and
what you are trying to do

BUT;

I changed my worn out horn ring for a new one - and the relationship of
the parts in the steering column changed and my steering wheel would not
go back on properly and the two pins at the bottom of the column would
not engage properly. David Beierl worked with me extensively to try and
figure out what the problem was. Ultimately - it was found to be a fault
in the new part. The new horn ring had a shoulder molded into it that
the old horn ring did not. This shoulder acted as and additional spacer
thus lengthening the entire assemble, making it impossible for the end
of the shaft to engage properly. Once the problem was identified, the
fix was to remove the metal parts from the plastics of new horn ring and
install them on the plastics of the old horn ring and re-install the old
horn ring.  Worked perfect after that..

I don't know if this helps with your problem, but that is what David and
I went through.

Hope it helps.

John Rodgers

On 2/3/2013 1:20 AM, neil n wrote:
> I think I see what you mean, but from what I'm seeing of these particular
> parts on the bench, raising the (pot metal?) ign. switch housing moves the
> inner shaft along with it, closer to the driver. So, this should move these
> pins (pointed to by "a")
>
> https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gVkK8CVJ9xk/UQro3rJcwwI/AAAAAAAAGuc/efvSeyJiwV4/s720/Upper%253Alower%2520Steering%2520column%2520adjust.jpg
>
> further into the rubber bushings. Or am I all wet on this one?  (for the
> record, this has never happened before.
> < grin > )
>
> Here's a youtube video I just made. It shows the movement I refer to.
>
> Points given to those who can name the brand of beer I'm drinking.    ;)
>
> Video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLWnjLO8vlM&feature=youtu.be
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 10:48 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> At 08:05 PM 2/2/2013, neil n wrote:
>>
>>> Working on the '85 parts, removed Allen bolt and black plastic sleeve,
>>> sprayed lube between ignition switch housing and tube, *lightly*
>>> tapped the ignition switch housing toward driver. It, and inner rod,
>>> moved about 6 mm closer to driver. Seems to me that doing this brings
>>> the lower column pins further into the bushings, closer to the 3.5 mm
>>> spec BUT I'm NOT certain how this affects the plastic ring etc. that
>>> David points to.
>>>
>>
>> It doesn't affect the switch-to-wheel spacing at all.  It *does* affect
>> shroud-to-wheel spacing.  It's been a while since I've been in there, but
>> can you not set the spacing you're talking about simply by sliding the
>> entire upper column assembly up and down on its slotted mounting holes
>> before tightening the bolts?
>>
>> Yrs,
>> d
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> 65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly  http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp
>
> '88 Slate Blue Westy to be named.
>
> '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> Vanagon VAG Gas I4/VR Swap Google Group:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>