I could just be blow by from the rings being worn out at that milage it
would not be uncommon.  Have you done a compression test or leak down test
on it?  That would be the next step as a leak down test would show if you
had a compression leak into the crankcase.  At that high of miles I would
switch back to dino oil and also 20/50.  It should help slow the leak, but
if there is blow by it won't stop it.

Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com

On Tue, Feb 12, 2013 at 2:24 PM, Robert Clemmer <n51219@comcast.net> wrote:

> Thanks Ken,
>
> I am and have been using Mobil 1 15w-50 oil.  I had a lube oil analysis
> done
> and it does not indicate any fuel dilution.  Actually, it was lower than
> accepted normal standards.  I had replaced the crankcase breather tower
> o-ring so I know that is clear and open.  I've had this car since new and
> it
> is fairly high mileage at 253K miles.  It just runs sooooooo nice, I would
> hate to tear it apart.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> kenneth wilford (Van-Again)
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 11:58 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Oil leak
>
> Bob, you should check your crank case vent hose on the top of the engine.
> It goes from the black plastic crank case vent tower that is to the left of
> the alternator, over to the intake air boot.  Many times these are kinked
> or
> collapsed and that can cause high crankcase pressure that will push oil out
> of the weakest place which is usually the rear main seal for some reason.
> The other thing to do is to smell your oil.  If it smells gassy at all, you
> should have your fuel injectors cleaned and checked.  If you are
> experiencing high gasoline consumption or gassy smelling oil, you could
> have
> gasoline diluting your oil which will cause it to leak past a brand new
> seal.  They are made to hold in oil, not gas.  I would also check your oil
> level.  I high oil level can cause leaks.  I usually keep my oil level
> between the two marks on the dip stick.  Don't fill it all the way up, keep
> the oil in between the marks.
>
> What weight of oil are you using?  If you are using synthetic, switch to
> normal.  If you engine has over 50k miles on it, I would also use 20/50
> weight oil even in the winter.  If you do all of these things and still
> have
> a leak, then you are going to need to pull it apart again to see what is
> up.
> Most of the time you can fix this problem by dealing with one or two of
> these issues.  They are cheap and easy so it is worth a try before ripping
> the tranny or engine back out.
>
> Let me know if I can help you further.
>
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
> On Tue, Feb 12, 2013 at 9:52 AM, Robert Clemmer <n51219@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> > I have an annoying oil leak which I think is the front (flywheel side)
> > main seal.  When the transmission was rebuilt I asked the shop to
> > replace the seal while the transmission was out.  They said it wasn't
> > the problem and that I had something else going on there.  After I got
> > tired of it spotting up the back of the car and "marking it's
> > territory" I took it to another shop and had the seal/o-ring replaced.
> > Still leaks/drips, but not nearly as bad.
> >
> >
> >
> > My question is, is it likely that the case halves are seeping.  Is
> > that something that can/does happen?  Can there be something else
> > going on?  Or am I just being taking as a sucker?
> >
> >
> >
> > The car is a young 91 tin top, WBX, Auto transmission, 253K miles,
> > good oil pressure and good lube oil analysis report.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, BobC
> >
>
>