The can type relays are double break type. What that means is there are two air gaps when they open. Arc suppression and better chance of the circuit opening.

Dennis,
And I still can't type on this Windows 8 Phone!
________________________________
From: neil n<mailto:musomuso@gmail.com>
Sent: ‎3/‎13/‎2013 1:28 PM
To: Dennis Haynes<mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
Subject: Re: Alliance Deep Cycle? (Grp. 27) Wire To Alternator?

Way cool re: Alliance. Much less $ than a Trojan SCS150
http://www.trojanbattery.com/Products/SCS15012V.aspx

I'll google "double break relay". Would a "can" type solenoid isolator
suffice instead? They were on sale at Princess Auto.    ;^)
I will fuse charge line and load line to fridge.

The existing driver side aux. battery solenoid "can" type isolator is
actuated by the alternator blue wire (D+)

Easy to measure the "can" isolator current draw, but blue wire gauge
aside, will the (presumably) higher current demands of 2 "can" type
battery isolators etc. adversely affect the alternator regulator?

Thanks

Neil.

On Wed, Mar 13, 2013 at 5:21 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> The Alliance brand is reasonably priced even at the Freightliner dealer. BTW
> an 8 gauge charge line is ideal. Use a good size double break relay and be
> sure to control it so the relay is not closed while cranking the engine.
> Otherwise that line will see some starter current. Consider some type of
> over current protection. You have power on both sides. I like fusible links.
> Cheap and easy.
>
> Dennis,
> And I still can't type on this Windows 8 Phone!
> ________________________________
> From: neil n
> Sent: 3/13/2013 1:46 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Alliance Deep Cycle? (Grp. 27) Wire To Alternator?

> At $125.96 Cnd. for a group 27, I have to wonder if it's the same
> battery as the Alliance you write of.

--
Neil n

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