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Subject:Re: #8 Wire Terminal Crimp w/DIY Tools. Pass or fail? PICS
From:neil n
Date:Sat, 16 Mar 2013 12:04:54 -0700

> I've used the hammer type crimper that he shows in the first photo.

I don't see the image but google shows what you refer to.

I'll crimp and solder the #8 wire from battery to fridge here at home
as it's already fished into the cabinetry. Poor planning on my part,
but it's not as "mission critical" as the connection at alternator and
solenoid isolator in the engine bay.

The tool at the marine store ends up squishing a tiny portion of the
barrel flat at each side but *seems* to capture the entire OD of wire
and makes for a strong crimp. Images:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u0kX3zFBnFs/UUTB8JQzVnI/AAAAAAAAHKY/PmupbkUMVSQ/s448/marine%2520store%2520crimp%25202.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-edfFNuDDF14/UUTB7i1b0WI/AAAAAAAAHKQ/mghUpgJWOM8/s512/Marine%2520Store%2520Crimp.jpg

All told will be shrink wrapped, possibly twice, taped, covered and
wire to alternator strapped to alternator.

Neil.

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 10:57 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
> At 06:37 PM 3/15/2013, neil n wrote:

>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/133231216
>
>
> That's a pretty high standard to live up to.  But those pages certainly show
> how to do it right.
>
> I've used the hammer type crimper that he shows in the first photo.  Paid
> about forty dollars for it fifteen years ago.  I found it effective and easy
> to use, but it doesn't make a full-circumference swage like his other tool.
>
> That cautionary example he shows is a scandalously bad terminal.  I wonder
> whether it would even withstand a pull test, there's so little material.
>
> Yours,
> David

--
Neil n

65 kb image Myford Ready For Assembly  http://tinyurl.com/64sx4rp

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