hey thanks much Dick.

I tinned the leads but not the copper. Still. Worked out "ok"

Just finished applying "Goop" over things. Hope that also helps
protect against the potential flux issue you mention (thanks). Image:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1jzQgwSuIrQ/UVIurkcTL1I/AAAAAAAAHU4/Z5Y3USht3HI/s800/Goop%2527d.jpg

In hindsight, should have soldered wires to all traces. i.e. there's a
diesel glow plug I'll now not easily be able to use as a CEL light.

On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 3:50 PM, sailingfc @dslextreme.com
<sailingfc@dslextreme.com> wrote:
> Neil,
>
> I work at an electronics assembly company and we (not me) do a lot of hand
> soldering.  As you already know, getting the copper as clean as possible
> helps the solder wick properly.
>
> Another thing, if you didn't already do this is to tin every surface you are
> going to solder to.  Pre-tin the wires and pre-tin the copper traces.  It's
> a lot easier to apply heat to a single part than it is to multiple parts of
> different thermal masses.  When you actually start soldering, keep heat on
> the larger thermal mass and bring it on contact to the "lighter" part.  You
> shouldn't have to add too much more solder since the parts are tinned.  If
> you are using an active flux in the solder wire, make sure you wash off the
> flux after soldering, active flux will continue to etch the copper and will
> corrode the copper given the right temperature and moisture conditions.
>
> Good luck!
>
> -Dick Wong-
> 78 Scirocco
> 87 Vanagon Syncro
> 12 Golf TDI

--
Neil n

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