Some of the best writing I have ever read.
The 'voice' too ..
feminine,safe-feeling, fun ...innocent even . 'Innocent' is one of the
very highest qualities in my book.
Couldn't have enjoyed reading it more !
super well written.   A +.
Awesome trip too of course.
S.

On 4/14/2013 10:33 PM, OlRivrRat wrote:
>                Liz & John
>
>        Sounds like you had nice trip ~ Thanks for the great report ~ Hope
> you get the bugs worked out on your EJ25. How about giving a more
> thorough description of the 70mphCutout it is doing ~ Kinda sounds
> like it could be VSS related.
>
> ORR ~ DeanB
> On 14 Apr , 2013, at 12:52 AM, John King wrote:
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>> My wife, Liz, and I have owned our '87 Vanagon for a little over 3
>> years now. I've been reading the emails from this group for most of
>> that time. Apart from my gathering much useful technical
>> information, we have enjoyed reading the trip reports. So, after
>> returning from a 6 week road trip down the west coast of mainland
>> Mexico, Liz (the writer in our family) wrote up the following report:
>>
>> 4 years ago we were on a fly in vacation to Sayulita, a little beach
>> town just north of Puerto Vallarta, and had a chance encounter the
>> led us to this posting...
>>
>> We met a couple from Oregon who had driven down with their pop-top
>> tent trailer and instantly knew "we want to do that!" Came home,
>> bought a pop-top tent trailer... tried to love it but failed to
>> bond. Sold the trailer and caught the Vanagon virus... and loved it
>> ever since. After much time spent sorting out our lives and our
>> Vanagon, this last Feb. 20 we headed out in our 1987 Syncro with
>> Westy top transplant, named Ferd (after the kid's book Ferdinand the
>> Bull)...accompanied by our 2 old and decaying (read stinky) lady
>> black lab dogs. We had originally planned to accompany Mark Drillock
>> and his group Vanagon trip down Baja then continuing on to the ferry
>> over to mainland MX, but dogs became a complication, so we decided
>> to strike out on our own. Next year Mark! We will find a place here
>> for the dogs... Anyway... Tacoma WA to Sayulita...about 2600 miles
>> one way. We were meeting friends in Sayulita on the 15th of March
>> which gave us about 3 weeks to make the 6 day journey. Regarding
>> Vanagon trips: I have read the phrase "just enough drama to make the
>> trip interesting..." and it was only a matter of miles...like
>> 20...before we had our first drama. The water temp as reported by
>> the Scangauge (Ferd has a 2.5 Subie with OBD 2 connector) was
>> reading way high...220 and creeping higher. WHAT? We were not even a
>> half hour from home! It hovered around 225 at highest and would then
>> back off a bit...we held our breath and drove on trying to get to
>> warmer/dryer weather before changing the thermostat. For 2 days this
>> went on...temp creeping up but never quite blowing Ferd up...and in
>> time, just cured itself. Yeah! Hopefully just a sticky thermostat
>> and not some blockage that moved elsewhere to trouble us later.
>>
>> We went down on 101 along the Oregon coast, camping the first night
>> in the rain. First night out, who cares! We were on vacation and all
>> was good. Along the coast one morning Ferd was making a new
>> sound...the question "What is that sound?" became a constant refrain
>> from each of us over the trip. This time it seemed to be coming from
>> the top. We pulled over, checked it out and sheepishly snapped the
>> top down. SOMEONE had not quite gotten the latch engaged and the top
>> was just thinking about being blown upward as we motored down the
>> road. Tragedy averted. Continued down the coast camping, dang...it
>> was cold! Thinking about warm nights in Mexico, we had not brought
>> warm enough bedding, and after spending one night in the redwoods
>> sleeping in full hat, gloves, woolies and down parka under our sorry
>> comforter....we realized we had to make an adjustment. Plugging in
>> became a thought...we had brought a little electric space
>> heater....where to plug in? Looking at  KOA/RV parks became a new
>> adventure and while I NEVER thought myself an RV or KOA kinda
>> girl...more the pit toilet type...we went for it..... spent a great
>> night in a KOA in the Healdsburg, CA area...hot tub under a full
>> moon. Plotting our route became each morning's exercise... well, we
>> had to camp where no Ferd camper has camped before. Like the KOA in
>> Vegas on the strip....just behind Circus Circus. Not bad really,
>> nice spot of dead grass right next to Ferd for the girl dogs to pee
>> on, and we walked down the strip (once is enough) and saw the
>> Beatles LOVE show. Surreal camping! One of the dogs peed on her bed
>> just to agree with us I think...GET US OUT OF HERE! A long stretch
>> of highway between Vegas and Phoenix had huge tumble weeds on either
>> side....like the size of a fridgerator...and they would periodically
>> blow across the road behind us, or way out in front. One particular
>> weed had his way with us...rolling along to pass before Ferd's front
>> INCHES from us as I cruised about 65 mph...kinda liquefied my
>> innards to see something that big roll into my path. We go to the
>> border after spending 8 nights on the road, camping all but one
>> night when we stayed with friends in Phoenix. We tended to do 5ish
>> hour drive days...no hurry. Enjoyed driving through Kings Canyon and
>> Sequoia national parks, lovely camp spot along Lake Havasu...it was
>> all good. We had purchased Mexican car insurance that took effect
>> March 1st, so the night of Feb. 28th we settled in at our first
>> hotel of the trip in Nogales, AZ, ready to cross the border the next
>> am. We had 15 days to get to Sayulita, normally about a 3 day drive,
>> so taking our time was the order of business....Hit the crossing at
>> 6:20 am in the 29 degree cold air! It took us about 45 minutes and
>> there were no lines at all. Paid, stamped, stickered and we were on
>> our way in the creeping dawn, ready to tackle the Mexican roads. It
>> was a bit hairy at first...trying to read the Church's Mexican
>> Camping guidebook route....trying to read the Mexican road
>> signs....trying to figure out where the lanes were...watching our
>> speed ever so closely so not to be stopped, horror of horrors. As
>> the day got brighter and we hit Hermosillo....it got a bit tense in
>> the city driving with added sounds and chaos...but we kept cool and
>> made it through without a miss, stopping at a big LEYS grocery to
>> load up on food and beverages. First night camping at Islandia
>> Trailer Park in Bahia de Kino. Nice place within easy walking
>> distance to the fishing village of Viejo (old) Kino. Quiet spot,
>> pulled up right to the beach...spent 2 nights. Sighs and
>> smiles....we were camping in Mexico! Next stop was Guaymas/San
>> Carlos at the Totonaka RV Park. A big place with some giant
>> motorhomes. They gave us a nice spot with shade for the old dogs who
>> were not quite ready for the instant hot weather we had transported
>> them to. The park also gives you one of those coupons for a free
>> margarita at the restaurant next door...and one (complimentary size)
>> drink was just not enough, but the second (non-complimentary size)
>> one was as big as my head and well...let's just say it was a long
>> night and an even longer next day....but Tequila is still a good
>> friend. We just respect each other. Headed to Huatabampito
>> next...crossing over inland roads Ferd's outdoor air temp registered
>> 101 degrees at one point...and we do not have working air
>> conditioning and so the wind tunnel also known as Ferd zoomed along,
>> all windows open, dog tongues panting, us either silent or shouting,
>> truly shouting, at each other just to be heard. It was tiring and
>> regrets about NOT spending money to fix that air conditioning were
>> strong.  About this time the last of the grease on the newish,
>> urethane bushings must have melted away. Could they squeak any
>> louder? Folks on the street actually turned and looked to see what
>> all the racket was, and this is in Mexico! It was kinda
>> embarrassing. John had tools along to disassemble and regrease them,
>> but didn't really want to tackle it on the road since it was not in
>> danger of breaking, just really annoying. Instead, he bought a can
>> of WD-40 and discovered that each application stopped the squeaking
>> for about 3 - 5 minutes of driving. Huatabampito...beautifully
>> barren. No town, just some Mexican vacation homes and a big, empty
>> beach. The economy, gas prices and fear of Mexican narcos has
>> seemingly slashed the gringo RV camping in Mexico. Of the 36 spots
>> at El Mirador....there was only one other vehicle. We pulled right
>> up to the beach's edge and spent 3 quiet, lovely nights. Ate at the
>> restaurant there one night, but otherwise camp cooked. There is
>> nothing like cooking bacon barefoot in the sand, breathing salt air,
>> and staring out over the ocean.
>> On to Alamos, a wonderful colonial town founded in the 1680's. It is
>> up in the mountains a bit and a nice change from the beach. I loved
>> the town and its vibe...could see spending serious time here. We
>> found a guy named Kelly roasting coffee at the Colonial Hotel. His
>> methods were pure science and his product was magically perfect. I
>> bought a kilo and am still brewing my cup with those grounds as of
>> this morning. Two nights spent at Rancho Acosta...fairly quiet
>> except for the kid group one evening, who must have been celebrating
>> a birthday or something...they were fun to watch. We ate street
>> tacos on the square and hiked up to the town overlook. I had one
>> heart attack...happened to look up during my shower and quickly
>> counted FIVE SPIDERS the size of the palm of my hand...did a OMG
>> breath, started even, calming breathing and just did not look up
>> again. I hate spiders.
>>
>> Next stop Celestino Gasca at the Celestino RV Resort. Resort is such
>> a funny word...conjures up such tropical, sunny, happy, beachy
>> scenes. This place was again, almost empty. Long empty beach, not an
>> umbrella in sight..and windy to blow you right outa your car. We
>> camped here one night and while the camp site was ok...the wind was
>> fierce, so we kept heading south to the San Blas area... And stayed
>> at Paraiso Miramar....a spot with the loveliest, big, old tree just
>> on the edge of a large lawn atop the bank above the beach.
>> Again...empty of campers. Where are all the people? We knew Easter
>> was coming...and we had been hearing rumors...yes, places were empty
>> of travelers from out of the country... yet every place we had been
>> seemed to be preparing for some big influx of folk...painting was
>> being done...roofing re-thatched.  Yup...Semana Santa, the week
>> prior to Easter was at the month's end and apparently it was when
>> every Mexican person took the week off and schools were out and they
>> all went to the beach. Hmmmm...never occurred to us we would be at
>> the beach during the country's biggest  beach party of the year. Oh
>> boy.
>> We got to Sayulita 2 days early on the 13th and settled into the
>> Sayulita Trailer Park and Bungelows...camping spot #6 to wait for
>> our friends Puerto Vallarta airport arrival on the 15th. We were in
>> the very trailer park the folks we met 4 years earlier had been in
>> when we met them and they set this dream in motion. Yee ha! We were
>> so proud! and the dogs had lived...I had bet money on Frieda (who
>> turns 15 in May) not living through the trip...but there she was. It
>> was HOT in Sayulita...and our little camping spot did not catch much
>> breeze...and while we had great fun with our friends, I missed the
>> road and the adventure of the unknown. And honestly, I was feeling a
>> bit cramped. I love Ferd for a road trip...but to spend more than
>> about 3 nights in one place...I need a bit more room. One of the
>> smart things we planned for was the dogs sleeping space. Early in
>> the trip they slept (and scratched and burped and farted) In the van
>> with us. It was tight...but we managed.  In the warmer climates we
>> set up a cheap backpacking tent outside of the van. It was their
>> kennel..and it gave us a daytime place to put them for their
>> frequent naps and night time place for them to sleep...best 50 bucks
>> spent. They are too old and frail to push their way out of even a
>> cheap tent. Nearing the end of our two weeks in Sayulita...our group
>> was getting restless. A virus had hit and most of us took turns
>> being sick. The beach and town were filling up as the holiday
>> weekend neared...and so we all just left early. Friends flew out and
>> we took off on the 27th and headed north at break neck speeds...made
>> it to the border in 3 days and while we thought we were nuts to show
>> up at the border on Friday evening of Easter weekend...there was ONE
>> car in front of us and we were through in minutes and back at that
>> Nogales AZ hotel where I took one fantastic shower. From there we
>> made tracks home...hoteling it the entire way (2 more nights). Ferd
>> did his usual drama...we have an engine cut out problem that had
>> occurred from time to time at home and a couple of times earlier on
>> the trip down...but now seemed to be the chosen drama of the day. On
>> our last day's drive the engine momentarily cut out 15 times...and
>> cruising at 70mph...it is a bit disconcerting. Both of us kept
>> yelling at Ferd that we had to make it home and then he could just
>> let go. We were wondering if both Ferd and the dogs would just
>> expire once we hit our driveway. But they all lived. And lived
>> well....what an adventure! What fun it was. And the truth is, if we
>> had traveled in some moterhomemothership type of vehicle...it would
>> have just been a plain trip.  No drama. But in this treasured van,
>> this van with more personality that a lot of people I know....the
>> trip took on a quality that is untouchable.  I loved it.  I am a
>> road trip warrior girl....as long as my handy and ever positive
>> (that noise..? it is nothing to worry about) husband is along for
>> the ride. We will be doing Glacier and the Canyonlands area this
>> Sept....and looking for dog care before we leave!
>>
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>