

| Subject: | Re: Black wire by water tank... |
| From: | David Beierl |
| Date: | Mon, 15 Apr 2013 16:21:20 -0400 |
At 03:33 PM 4/15/2013, Bryan Feddish wrote: >hmmmm, I was hoping it would be to my water pump somehow. Everything is >working except the faucet at the moment. Water pump is red from kitchen fuse to LED panel connector pin 4, jumpered to pin 1 (because the earliest LED panels had a transistor switch for the water pump supply) then yellow to faucet switch connector and thence yellow to a double connector in the "secret compartment" forward of the water tank where it plugs into water pump blue. Water pump brown returns to same connector where it connects brown to ground in common with the tank sender. Failure points are the rather simplistic faucet switch which is often repairable (unscrew the cap and it's right there), not making full contact on faucet connector/pump connector (either by not plugging in far enough, or by having the terminals miss each other when plugging in -- look carefully through clear cover), and the pump itself. Voltage testing, back-probe the pump connector for +12 on the blue wire and ground on the brown one (faucet switch on of course). If both are +12 then bad ground. If no +12, check the yellow side. If no +12 there, pop the top of the faucet and look for +12 on one pin, check for broken wire and repair if needed. If no +12 at faucet, or if present but jumpering across the switch doesn't make the pump run, basically what's left is the faucet connector behind the silverware drawer. If the pump connector is screwed to the bulkhead, easier to work with if you take it off the wall first IIRC. Yrs, d
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