isn't there a black wire, or is it 2 black wires that go to the display unit T6 connector?

But perhaps more to the point, there is also a black wire that runs to the lower, right stud on water tank that is part of the water level sensor system.

alistair

On 2013-04-15, at 1:21 PM, David Beierl wrote:

> At 03:33 PM 4/15/2013, Bryan Feddish wrote:
>> hmmmm, I was hoping it would be to my water pump somehow. Everything is
>> working except the faucet at the moment.
> 
> Water pump is red from kitchen fuse to LED panel connector pin 4,
> jumpered to pin 1 (because the earliest LED panels had a transistor
> switch for the water pump supply) then yellow to faucet switch
> connector and thence yellow to a double connector in the "secret
> compartment" forward of the water tank where it plugs into water pump
> blue.  Water pump brown returns to same connector where it connects
> brown to ground in common with the tank sender.
> 
> Failure points are the rather simplistic faucet switch which is often
> repairable (unscrew the cap and it's right there), not making full
> contact on faucet connector/pump connector (either by not plugging in
> far enough, or by having the terminals miss each other when plugging
> in -- look carefully through clear cover), and the pump itself.
> 
> Voltage testing, back-probe the pump connector for +12 on the blue
> wire and ground on the brown one (faucet switch on of course).  If
> both are +12 then bad ground.  If no +12, check the yellow side.  If
> no +12 there, pop the top of the faucet and look for +12 on one pin,
> check for broken wire and repair if needed.
> 
> If no +12 at faucet, or if present but jumpering across the switch
> doesn't make the pump run, basically what's left is the faucet
> connector behind the silverware drawer.
> 
> If the pump connector is screwed to the bulkhead, easier to work with
> if you take it off the wall first IIRC.
> 
> Yrs,
> d