There is absolutely no reason to disconnect the upper ball joint to service
a wheel bearing unless you are working on a Syncro. 

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Dan Andrews
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:34 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?

Hi All,

 

For some time now, I�ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I drive
my 1982 T3.

 

It�s usually only noticeable when I�m coasting, and gets louder as I
decelerate harder.

 

It�s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.

 

This being my first �car� (I�ve always owned bikes), I have  a lot of
trouble hearing where things are coming from � however after a few months of
indecision I decided that it�s the front left wheel bearing, because:

(i)                  It sounds like that�s where it�s coming from;

(ii)                It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);

(iii)               As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of the
vehicle � it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder then;

(iv)              I don�t believe I would hear it if it was coming from the
rear of the vehicle.

 

When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can�t notice any
click/rough spot/defect � however I consider that this is simply because I�m
not replicating the load conditions � no weight, no speed.

 

I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
doing).

 

Sadly, I didn�t get far.

 

The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which attaches
the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake calliper.

 

I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can�t get a break
bar/ratchet onto the socket.

 

Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a semi-circle,
I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath (and
thread it through the semi-circle).  I tried three different length of ��
drive extender bar with no luck�

 

I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I�ve changed the
bearing I�m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs � and I really
don�t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.

 

I know it can�t be as hard as I�m making it � I simply don�t have the
necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).

 

I thought I should ask the list for help.

 

(Thank you)

 

-Dan