Hi Dennis,

According to the manual, I have to remove the calliper.

To remove the calliper, I have to:
i) Remove the pads (tick)
ii) Remove the bracket which holds the brake cable in place (which is
affixed to the vehicle using the big ball joint bolt).

It seems to make sense when I look at it.

Do you have another plan?

Thanks!

-Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Dennis Haynes
Sent: Saturday, 27 April 2013 9:34 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?

There is absolutely no reason to disconnect the upper ball joint to service
a wheel bearing unless you are working on a Syncro. 

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Dan Andrews
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:34 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?

Hi All,

 

For some time now, I�ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I drive
my 1982 T3.

 

It�s usually only noticeable when I�m coasting, and gets louder as I
decelerate harder.

 

It�s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.

 

This being my first �car� (I�ve always owned bikes), I have  a lot of
trouble hearing where things are coming from � however after a few months of
indecision I decided that it�s the front left wheel bearing, because:

(i)                  It sounds like that�s where it�s coming from;

(ii)                It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);

(iii)               As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of the
vehicle � it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder then;

(iv)              I don�t believe I would hear it if it was coming from the
rear of the vehicle.

 

When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can�t notice any
click/rough spot/defect � however I consider that this is simply because I�m
not replicating the load conditions � no weight, no speed.

 

I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
doing).

 

Sadly, I didn�t get far.

 

The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which attaches
the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake calliper.

 

I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can�t get a break
bar/ratchet onto the socket.

 

Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a semi-circle,
I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath (and
thread it through the semi-circle).  I tried three different length of ��
drive extender bar with no luck�

 

I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I�ve changed the
bearing I�m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs � and I really
don�t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.

 

I know it can�t be as hard as I�m making it � I simply don�t have the
necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).

 

I thought I should ask the list for help.

 

(Thank you)

 

-Dan