

| Subject: | Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how? |
| From: | J Stewart |
| Date: | Sat, 27 Apr 2013 12:04:09 +0000 |
Just out of curiosity, what type of wheels/wheel covers do you have? I have heard wheel covers make that same type of sound, even chrome trim rings. You may not have a problem at all. Jeff Stewart ----- Original Message ----- > Hi All, > > For some time now, I’ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I > drive > my 1982 T3. > > It’s usually only noticeable when I’m coasting, and gets louder as I > decelerate harder. > > It’s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does. > > This being my first ‘car’ (I’ve always owned bikes), I have a lot of > trouble hearing where things are coming from – however after a few > months of > indecision I decided that it’s the front left wheel bearing, because: > (i) It sounds like that’s where it’s coming from; > (ii) It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of > the > punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road); > (iii) As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front > of the > vehicle – it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder > then; > (iv) I don’t believe I would hear it if it was coming > from the > rear of the vehicle. > > When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can’t notice any > click/rough spot/defect – however I consider that this is simply > because I’m > not replicating the load conditions – no weight, no speed. > > I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by > doing). > > Sadly, I didn’t get far. > > The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which > attaches > the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house > retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake > calliper. > > I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can’t get a break > bar/ratchet onto the socket. > > Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a > semi-circle, > I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath > (and > thread it through the semi-circle). I tried three different length of > ½” > drive extender bar with no luck… > > I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I’ve changed the > bearing I’m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs – and I > really > don’t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner. > > I know it can’t be as hard as I’m making it – I simply don’t have the > necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual). > > I thought I should ask the list for help. > > (Thank you) > > -Dan >
Have something to add on this topic today? Revive this thread in the forum »