Dennis has already mentioned this, but reinforcement is good. Bad bearings almost never go click-click-click. CV joint is more likely, however, you don't have CV up front as yours is not a Syncro. I would look for a rock or similar object stuck in your tire (I once had one that was the size of a fist! And no that tire wasn't savable.) 

On Apr 27, 2013, at 2:33 AM, Dan Andrews wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> 
> 
> For some time now, I�ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I drive
> my 1982 T3.
> 
> 
> 
> It�s usually only noticeable when I�m coasting, and gets louder as I
> decelerate harder.
> 
> 
> 
> It�s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
> 
> 
> 
> This being my first �car� (I�ve always owned bikes), I have  a lot of
> trouble hearing where things are coming from � however after a few months of
> indecision I decided that it�s the front left wheel bearing, because:
> 
> (i)                  It sounds like that�s where it�s coming from;
> 
> (ii)                It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
> 
> (iii)               As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of the
> vehicle � it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder then;
> 
> (iv)              I don�t believe I would hear it if it was coming from the
> rear of the vehicle.
> 
> 
> 
> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can�t notice any
> click/rough spot/defect � however I consider that this is simply because I�m
> not replicating the load conditions � no weight, no speed.
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
> doing).
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, I didn�t get far.
> 
> 
> 
> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which attaches
> the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
> retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake calliper.
> 
> 
> 
> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can�t get a break
> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
> 
> 
> 
> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a semi-circle,
> I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath (and
> thread it through the semi-circle).  I tried three different length of ��
> drive extender bar with no luck�
> 
> 
> 
> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I�ve changed the
> bearing I�m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs � and I really
> don�t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.
> 
> 
> 
> I know it can�t be as hard as I�m making it � I simply don�t have the
> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I should ask the list for help.
> 
> 
> 
> (Thank you)
> 
> 
> 
> -Dan
> 
>