I would find a way to hang the caliper with some bailing wire up and out
of the way, i wouldn't remove it.

Mike B.

On 4/27/2013 8:03 AM, Dan Andrews wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
>
> According to the manual, I have to remove the calliper.
>
> To remove the calliper, I have to:
> i) Remove the pads (tick)
> ii) Remove the bracket which holds the brake cable in place (which is
> affixed to the vehicle using the big ball joint bolt).
>
> It seems to make sense when I look at it.
>
> Do you have another plan?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dennis Haynes
> Sent: Saturday, 27 April 2013 9:34 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>
> There is absolutely no reason to disconnect the upper ball joint to service
> a wheel bearing unless you are working on a Syncro.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dan Andrews
> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:34 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> For some time now, I�ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I drive
> my 1982 T3.
>
>
>
> It�s usually only noticeable when I�m coasting, and gets louder as I
> decelerate harder.
>
>
>
> It�s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
>
>
>
> This being my first �car� (I�ve always owned bikes), I have  a lot of
> trouble hearing where things are coming from � however after a few months of
> indecision I decided that it�s the front left wheel bearing, because:
>
> (i)                  It sounds like that�s where it�s coming from;
>
> (ii)                It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
>
> (iii)               As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of the
> vehicle � it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder then;
>
> (iv)              I don�t believe I would hear it if it was coming from the
> rear of the vehicle.
>
>
>
> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can�t notice any
> click/rough spot/defect � however I consider that this is simply because I�m
> not replicating the load conditions � no weight, no speed.
>
>
>
> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
> doing).
>
>
>
> Sadly, I didn�t get far.
>
>
>
> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which attaches
> the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
> retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake calliper.
>
>
>
> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can�t get a break
> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
>
>
>
> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a semi-circle,
> I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath (and
> thread it through the semi-circle).  I tried three different length of ��
> drive extender bar with no luck�
>
>
>
> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I�ve changed the
> bearing I�m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs � and I really
> don�t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.
>
>
>
> I know it can�t be as hard as I�m making it � I simply don�t have the
> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
>
>
>
> I thought I should ask the list for help.
>
>
>
> (Thank you)
>
>
>
> -Dan
>
>