Wire is good for baling, not so good for bailing.   :-)

On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 12:08 PM, Mike B <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:

> I would find a way to hang the caliper with some bailing wire up and out
> of the way, i wouldn't remove it.
>
> Mike B.
>
>
> On 4/27/2013 8:03 AM, Dan Andrews wrote:
>
>> Hi Dennis,
>>
>> According to the manual, I have to remove the calliper.
>>
>> To remove the calliper, I have to:
>> i) Remove the pads (tick)
>> ii) Remove the bracket which holds the brake cable in place (which is
>> affixed to the vehicle using the big ball joint bolt).
>>
>> It seems to make sense when I look at it.
>>
>> Do you have another plan?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> -Dan
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.**com<vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>]
>> On Behalf Of
>> Dennis Haynes
>> Sent: Saturday, 27 April 2013 9:34 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>>
>> There is absolutely no reason to disconnect the upper ball joint to
>> service
>> a wheel bearing unless you are working on a Syncro.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.**com<vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>]
>> On Behalf Of
>> Dan Andrews
>> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:34 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>>
>>
>> For some time now, I�ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I
>> drive
>> my 1982 T3.
>>
>>
>>
>> It�s usually only noticeable when I�m coasting, and gets louder as I
>> decelerate harder.
>>
>>
>>
>> It�s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
>>
>>
>>
>> This being my first �car� (I�ve always owned bikes), I have  a lot of
>> trouble hearing where things are coming from � however after a few months
>> of
>> indecision I decided that it�s the front left wheel bearing, because:
>>
>> (i)                  It sounds like that�s where it�s coming from;
>>
>> (ii)                It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
>> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
>>
>> (iii)               As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of
>> the
>> vehicle � it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder then;
>>
>> (iv)              I don�t believe I would hear it if it was coming from
>> the
>> rear of the vehicle.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can�t notice any
>> click/rough spot/defect � however I consider that this is simply because
>> I�m
>> not replicating the load conditions � no weight, no speed.
>>
>>
>>
>> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
>> doing).
>>
>>
>>
>> Sadly, I didn�t get far.
>>
>>
>>
>> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which attaches
>> the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the brake house
>> retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake calliper.
>>
>>
>>
>> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can�t get a break
>> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
>>
>>
>>
>> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a
>> semi-circle,
>> I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in from underneath (and
>> thread it through the semi-circle).  I tried three different length of ��
>> drive extender bar with no luck�
>>
>>
>>
>> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I�ve changed the
>> bearing I�m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs � and I really
>> don�t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring spanner.
>>
>>
>>
>> I know it can�t be as hard as I�m making it � I simply don�t have the
>> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
>>
>>
>>
>> I thought I should ask the list for help.
>>
>>
>>
>> (Thank you)
>>
>>
>>
>> -Dan
>>
>>
>>