Dennis,

You need a Ghost Writer to simply assemble your chicken scratch notes
into a coherent tech book. Just review the draft before publication. Or
better yet - talk into a recorder and have your recordings transcribed.
That would work!

Put me on the list for an autographed edition of the new Haynes Manual!!!!

John

On 4/27/2013 5:52 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Thank you for the plug but except for short answers I suck at writing. Now
> if a group would like to get together for some fun and training that I would
> be up for.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dan Lamb
> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 9:49 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Undoing the big nut on the upper ball joint - who knows how?
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> The speedo is driven from the left front hub. Sometimes there are clearance
> issues with the outer hubcap, or could be dry or broken cable.  Also, I
> wouldn't trust the Haynes manual too far. Now if we could get Dennis to
> write a manual, then we would have a really good Haynes manual, I think:).
>
> Dan Lamb
>
> On Friday, April 26, 2013, Dan Andrews wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>>
>>
>> For some time now, I�ve been noticing a click-click-click noise when I
>> drive my 1982 T3.
>>
>>
>>
>> It�s usually only noticeable when I�m coasting, and gets louder as I
>> decelerate harder.
>>
>>
>>
>> It�s clearly a rotational noise, and slows as the vehicle speed does.
>>
>>
>>
>> This being my first �car� (I�ve always owned bikes), I have  a lot of
>> trouble hearing where things are coming from � however after a few
>> months of indecision I decided that it�s the front left wheel bearing,
>> because:
>>
>> (i)                  It sounds like that�s where it�s coming from;
>>
>> (ii)                It makes sense that the left hand side cops all of the
>> punishment (we drive on the left hand side of the road);
>>
>> (iii)               As I decelerate, the load moves towards the front of
>> the
>> vehicle � it makes sense that the clicking would start/get louder
>> then;e dry
>>
>> (iv)              I don�t believe I would hear it if it was coming from
> the
>> rear of the vehicle.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I jack up the vehicle and rotate the hub, I can�t notice any
>> click/rough spot/defect � however I consider that this is simply
>> because I�m not replicating the load conditions � no weight, no speed.
>>
>>
>>
>> I purchased a Febi bearing kit, and got ready to go to work (learn by
>> doing).
>>
>>
>>
>> Sadly, I didn�t get far.
>>
>>
>>
>> The Haynes manual advises that I should remove the big nut which
>> attaches the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle, so that the
>> brake house retaining bracket will be free to move when I remove the brake
> calliper.
>>
>>
>>
>> I can get a socket onto this giant nut, but then can�t get a break
>> bar/ratchet onto the socket.
>>
>>
>>
>> Noting that the short length of metal brake pipe is bent into a
>> semi-circle, I thought I might be able to slide an extender bar in
>> from underneath (and thread it through the semi-circle).  I tried
>> three different length of ��
>> drive extender bar with no luck�
>>
>>
>>
>> I also thought of using a ring spanner, however after I�ve changed the
>> bearing I�m going to have to torque it back up to 160ft/lbs � and I
>> really don�t want to have to guess that amount of torque with a ring
> spanner.
>>
>>
>>
>> I know it can�t be as hard as I�m making it � I simply don�t have the
>> necessary experience (or perhaps the right manual).
>>
>>
>>
>> I thought I should ask the list for help.
>>
>>
>>
>> (Thank you)
>>
>>
>>
>> -Dan
>>
>>
>>
>