Thanks Dennis.

So slacking off the e-brake cable,  checking and re-adjusting the
shoes, (if needed) then re-adjusting the e-brake cable would be
incorrect?

Neil.

On Mon, May 27, 2013 at 4:19 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Do not go back and re-adjust the e-brake. Without that gap the adjuster will
> not work correctly. The adjuster has to be able to go loose when the
> cylinder pushes the shoes out in order for that lever to turn it out. The
> self-adjuster will take care of both the service and hand brake. Also, do
> not use heavy grease or anti-seize on the adjuster screw. It needs to turn
> easily. Lock type lubricants seem to work well here. As things can rust and
> also get damaged from hard stops etc., brakes should be inspected and the
> dust let out of the drums at least once/year. Pay attention to the rear
> brake wear pattern.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> neil n
> Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 3:14 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Causes of Brake Pull at Highway Speeds? UPDATE
>

> i.e. back off e-brake front cable nut, adjust shoes close to drums, ensure
> that there's a little wiggle room (small gap) between shoe levers and
> e-brake eyelets, drive and re-adjust rears then adjust e-brake as needed.

--
Neil n

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