This is all good stuff to ponder.  My rust spots are itty bitty and not life threatening.  I was thinking of using my Dremel as you mention to get rid of the rust and then filling with Por 15 patching stuff.  Its a two part rope where you cut off a piece, kneed the two parts together and work it into the depression and then after it hardens sand/file/grind it down.  I've never used it but figured it might be good stuff.    

--  
Jim
Sent with Sparrow (http://www.sparrowmailapp.com/?sig)

On Tuesday, June 4, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Jim Felder wrote:

> All this is good information, and correct as far as it goes, but millions
> of cars are doing very well that have had bondo on them for many, many
> years. If the area is structural (meaning that the integrity of the vehicle
> will suffer if steel is not used), then steel is called for. Around
> windows, as the original poster suggests, welding is overkill in my
> opinion. It sound like the poster just wants to get rid of rust and have a
> decent looking car.
>  
> Hats off if you can weld like that, though. That's awasome.
>  
> Small jobs like this can probably be done with a dremel tool to get down to
> real, shiny metal. Rust conversion chemicals won't get it. Fill with bondo,
> or if really tiny, spot putty. If bondo, let it cure to the hardness of
> cold cheese and then hit it with one of those auto body rasps. All this
> stuff you can get at a paint store or a FLAPS.
>  
> For bigger areas, a wire brush on an angle grinder--or, in some cases, and
> angle grinder—will be needed, but any time you use a grinder on steel it
> will need a lot of work to finish it back smooth.
>  
> Then prime it. You can use those little Preval sprayers you get at home
> stores or auto paint places. You can use primer out of a spray can, it
> works all right. You can order paint in small amounts from
> paintscratch.comto match any vehicle.
>  
> Before painting, you can put paracord under the edges of the rubber window
> molding, This way you can paint up under the edges of the window molding,
> and after painting remove the cord and let the rubber back down on the new
> paint. Of course you have to tape off the rubber and glass. I did a whole
> side of my vanagon like that recently and it came out beautifully.
>  
> When you get the paint, make sure you get everything you need with it.
>  
> Some one step enamels (you don't use clear coat) reduce 50% with lacquer
> thinner before they can be sprayed. Some require a special reducer. Some
> come to you reduced and ready to spray. Some require reducer and hardener
> in certain ratios. Some are two-step and require clear coat to match your
> car. Be sure you know what you are getting when you get it and get
> everything you need. You can easily tie up a hundred bucks in all the other
> stuff besides the paint (some is only available in gallons, so maybe you
> can talk a paint shop into pouring off just what you need). Bring a sharpie
> to the shop, if you go local, and mark the ratios on tops of the various
> cans. You will forget in six months on all but the simplest mixtures.
>  
> Sanding should begin with 600 and go to at least 800 or 1000. Primer will
> always need hand sanding. Keep it wet and go over it with 1000 if it looks
> good, 800 and then a thousand if it doesn't. You can read up on the sanding
> part anywhere. Years ago I bought a Haynes bodywork manual that did a good
> job of explaining things.
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 3:26 PM, Stuart Fedak <ve3smf@yahoo.com (mailto:ve3smf@yahoo.com)> wrote:
>  
> > A few years back, I took an evening auto body course at the local
> > community college. The instructor equated rust areas with cancer. The
> > only cure was surgical removal. We were taught to cut out until we were
> > into nice shiny steel. Then butt weld in new steel. No overlap welding,
> > no rivets. On Miller welding web pages are some good DVD on restoration
> > and custom manufacturing. I also ordered a DVD from the UK on restoration
> > techniques. As far as the steel, I was taught to use steel that was primed
> > using paint that can be welded. It has a higher zinc content and will
> > conduct. Most of my hobby welding is with MIG, butt welds and using brass
> > backup plates to absorb heat. Lots of use of compressed air to cool
> > between spot welds to prevent warping. I find I can do as good or better
> > than a bodywork shop, as I can take as much time as I want to do a good
> > job. Most body work shops, time is money, so Bondo is often the method of
> > choice.
> >  
> > What became clear to me in the three course that I took, preparation and
> > cutting until you are into good steel is the key. Most panel sections can
> > be fabricated, or replacement panels used.
> >  
> > As far as I am concerned, the only cure for rust cancer is cut and
> > replace. Everything else is just palliative care. The instructor said
> > that after doing a proper job, the next step is long term protection, use
> > of automotive sealant, correct primer and paint. For those in salt
> > moisture areas, one needs dry storage, pressure washing the areas prone to
> > rust, and using rust protection.
> >  
> > Depending on your personal circumstance, and budget, you may have to do
> > the best that you can. I found that my best solution was to invest in
> > myself, take Community college evening classes such as gas/arc welding, MIG
> > welding, body shop restoration, prep and surface prep/painting, machine
> > shop lathe/milling. I now have the skills to do most of my own work. I
> > have also been working on restoration of a few Canadian military vehicles
> > (originally designed by VW). As others have said, when you get into these
> > older vehicles, it is a lifestyle choice. You either have to have deep
> > pockets, or plan to learn a lot of new skills and do the work on your own.
> > You also have to learn how to source parts, find out what are consumable
> > items, learn how to do preventative maintenance, and how to ask questions,
> > and listen to the words of experience. Not everything is on the net, so
> > often you need to listen to the voice of experience.
> >  
> > Cheers!
> >  
> > Stuart
> >  
> > Sent from my electronic umbilicus
> >  
> > On 2013-06-04, at 1:25 PM, Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM (mailto:mcperdue@GMAIL.COM)> wrote:
> >  
> > > Perhaps you should define what you mean by "best"... Ideally, you would
> > > remove ALL rust, replace whatever metal needed replacing, prime, paint,
> > > etc. I've seen lots of articles where people talk about taking shortcuts
> > > here and there, treating with POR15 and such, but the best long-term, and
> > > probably most expensive, method seems to be to remove ALL the rust.
> > >  
> > > Disclaimer: I don't do body work, know next to nothing about it short of
> > > what I have read, and leave that to the professionals.
> > >  
> > > Good luck!
> > > Marc
> > >  
> > >  
> > > On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 1:03 PM, Jim <jimogul70@gmail.com (mailto:jimogul70@gmail.com)>
> > > >  
> > >  
> > >  
> >  
> >  
>  
>  
>