While it's a part check the thickness of the rotor. 11mm is the minimum.
Get good quality pads. FF or FG friction rating. Stopping ability is more
important than long life.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Tom Carchrae
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 6:31 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?

Got into it today and pulled out the pads and gave it a clean.  It certainly
was a bit crusty in there and the pads took a lot of gentle tapping to get
them out.  What I presume is the silencer plate was pretty torn up - much of
which probably happened as I was pulling it out.  It was definitely the
calliper, as the wheel spins easily without the pads in.
 Pics here:  https://www.copy.com/s/Wiiw2MRUZ3QL/caliper

I sourced a rebuilt one at $108 with a core swap (at Lordco - anyone in BC
have an account name I could use?) which is great since I can do it as soon
as I get over to the mainland.

On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 8:08 AM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:

> Thanks Dennis.  The rebuilds didn't look too expensive ($50 + $50 core
> deposit) and would probably be much better than what I could do.  I
> assume you want to replace both sides to ensure equal braking.
>
> Thanks for the info about the Girling changes.
>
> I will try and clean this one out a bit, it had been sitting quite a
> but this winter.  I will order a replacement set as well, and it is
> probably a good idea to replace the rubber hose while I'm at it.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:22 PM, Dennis Haynes
<d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> If the calipers are hung up or dragging the only correct fix is too
>> replace them. They are not lifetime parts and probably should be
>> renewed every 2nd or 3rd brake pad replacement. Rebuilds are readily
>> available. The Ate and Girling are interchangeable. The only
>> difference is the location of the brake tube connection. A 6" or 8"
>> tube assembly can be bent to make it work.
>> You can also get this at the FLAPS.
>> A small punch will easily knck those pins out and back in. There
>> should be silencer plates between the pads and pistons and an
>> anti-rattle plate on top. Where the pad sit inside the caliper
>> housing make sure there is no corrosion and that the pads can move
>> freely. The sides should have a light coating of brake grease to prevent
future corrosion from jamming the pads.
>>
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> Behalf Of Tom Carchrae
>> Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 11:30 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?
>>
>> Thanks Scott.  I should have mentioned, it is an 84 - and I think
>> they are the Teves type of caliper.  (similar to these
>>
>> http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_739_420/brake_caliper_-_ate_rig
>> ht.html
>> )
>>
>> I did look at the mechanism and we had a chat.  It was not listening,
>> so I gently whacked it and sprayed it with various chemicals.  Then I
>> felt bad and went and had dinner...
>>
>> I will try the piston workout tomorrow.  Aside from working it
>> in/out, is there any stuff I should (or should not) spray on it?  I
>> gave it a bit of
>> WD40 and then some brake cleaner later on.  I would guess that brake
>> fluid is probably good for it - although bad for everything else.
>>
>> The other general fear I have is that this is not the brake and
>> perhaps the wheel bearings or something else.  This is why I wanted
>> to get the pads out and see if the wheel spins.  I just need to find
>> the right tool to tap out those pins that hold the pads in.
>>
>> Would flushing the whole system help?  I read this
>>
>> http://www.vanagontravels.com/2012/08/vanagon-repair-brake-master-cyl
>> inder.h
>> tml-
>> but it is not clear what you do with the two pints of rubbing alcohol
>> they recommend.  Removing the calliper and soaking it sounds tempting
>> if it does not yield to the workout.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Scott Ohana
>> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>wrote:
>>
>> >  if it's the two piston caliper style..
>> > the outer pistons on those tend to seize up over many years.
>> >
>> > choices are ...
>> > ( this first one is unorthodox, can be highly effective, and is free ..
>> > but don't anyone try this !! )
>> >
>> > If you can get the piston to move at all, like pry it back with the
>> > pad or an old pad ...if it'll move at all ...
>> > then use brake pressure to push the piston out a little, let off
>> > the brake ..lever the piston back into the caliper a little ..say
>> > 1/8 inch at a time, back and forth..
>> > 'exercise' the piston this way ..back and forth, back and forth
>> > until it can travel smoothly up to half an inch say.
>> >
>> > that one is only for the very smart, confident, clever and brave
>> > and resourceful...all others don't even think about it.
>> >
>> > Next ...yup ..rebuild the caliper properly , or install a new
>> > rebuilt one.
>> >
>> > There was a time in the 60's say ..and before that ..
>> > people just looked at a mechanism..
>> > they could easily tell how it worked quite often..
>> > then they'd think up some way to adjust it, service it, lube it,
>> > tweak it somehow so it worked again.
>> >
>> > That was then though ..
>> > this is now ..apparently that's a completely lost art , from what I
>> > gather.
>> >
>> > Pre-computer people would just figure stuff out.  Wasn't hard either.
>> > People were taught to build things with their hands and brains too,
>> > starting before they were 10 years old often.
>> > Back then.
>> > Before everything was electronic, plastic, and disposable, and
>> > became obsolete in 4 years anyway.
>> > 'fixing stuff' ...what an odd ancient concept.
>> >
>> >
>> >  On 7/8/2013 7:08 PM, Tom Carchrae wrote:
>> >
>> > Thanks Mike and Dennis.
>> >
>> > I got a chance to look at it today.  The calliper seems a bit stuck
>> > on that side, certainly compared to the other front wheel which
>> > spins for much longer.  I loosened the bleeder and it didn't get
>> > any easier.  A bit of tapping on the pad made it a little looser.
>> >
>> > I'll try and remove the brake pad on that wheel tomorrow and give
>> > it a clean out.  It is all a bit rusty/crusty in there.  I guess I
>> > may need to take the calliper off and replace/rebuild.
>> >
>> > Tom
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:11 PM, Mike Riley <mkriley@fuse.net>
>> <mkriley@fuse.net> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >  the brake pedal going soft was from WATER boiling in the brake
>> > fluid and the sticking cliper also.
>> > CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID NOW! if your lucky you may have gotten  it
>> > in
>> time.
>> > mike
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>