Thanks Dennis.  The rebuilds didn't look too expensive ($50 + $50 core
deposit) and would probably be much better than what I could do.  I assume
you want to replace both sides to ensure equal braking.

Thanks for the info about the Girling changes.

I will try and clean this one out a bit, it had been sitting quite a but
this winter.  I will order a replacement set as well, and it is probably a
good idea to replace the rubber hose while I'm at it.

Tom

On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:22 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:

> If the calipers are hung up or dragging the only correct fix is too replace
> them. They are not lifetime parts and probably should be renewed every 2nd
> or 3rd brake pad replacement. Rebuilds are readily available. The Ate and
> Girling are interchangeable. The only difference is the location of the
> brake tube connection. A 6" or 8" tube assembly can be bent to make it
> work.
> You can also get this at the FLAPS.
> A small punch will easily knck those pins out and back in. There should be
> silencer plates between the pads and pistons and an anti-rattle plate on
> top. Where the pad sit inside the caliper housing make sure there is no
> corrosion and that the pads can move freely. The sides should have a light
> coating of brake grease to prevent future corrosion from jamming the pads.
>
>
> Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Tom Carchrae
> Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 11:30 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: burning smell - brakes or tire?
>
> Thanks Scott.  I should have mentioned, it is an 84 - and I think they are
> the Teves type of caliper.  (similar to these
>
> http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_739_420/brake_caliper_-_ate_right.html
> )
>
> I did look at the mechanism and we had a chat.  It was not listening, so I
> gently whacked it and sprayed it with various chemicals.  Then I felt bad
> and went and had dinner...
>
> I will try the piston workout tomorrow.  Aside from working it in/out, is
> there any stuff I should (or should not) spray on it?  I gave it a bit of
> WD40 and then some brake cleaner later on.  I would guess that brake fluid
> is probably good for it - although bad for everything else.
>
> The other general fear I have is that this is not the brake and perhaps the
> wheel bearings or something else.  This is why I wanted to get the pads out
> and see if the wheel spins.  I just need to find the right tool to tap out
> those pins that hold the pads in.
>
> Would flushing the whole system help?  I read this
>
> http://www.vanagontravels.com/2012/08/vanagon-repair-brake-master-cylinder.h
> tml-
> but it is not clear what you do with the two pints of rubbing alcohol they
> recommend.  Removing the calliper and soaking it sounds tempting if it does
> not yield to the workout.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Scott Ohana
> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>wrote:
>
> >  if it's the two piston caliper style..
> > the outer pistons on those tend to seize up over many years.
> >
> > choices are ...
> > ( this first one is unorthodox, can be highly effective, and is free ..
> > but don't anyone try this !! )
> >
> > If you can get the piston to move at all, like pry it back with the
> > pad or an old pad ...if it'll move at all ...
> > then use brake pressure to push the piston out a little, let off the
> > brake ..lever the piston back into the caliper a little ..say 1/8 inch
> > at a time, back and forth..
> > 'exercise' the piston this way ..back and forth, back and forth until
> > it can travel smoothly up to half an inch say.
> >
> > that one is only for the very smart, confident, clever and brave and
> > resourceful...all others don't even think about it.
> >
> > Next ...yup ..rebuild the caliper properly , or install a new rebuilt
> > one.
> >
> > There was a time in the 60's say ..and before that ..
> > people just looked at a mechanism..
> > they could easily tell how it worked quite often..
> > then they'd think up some way to adjust it, service it, lube it, tweak
> > it somehow so it worked again.
> >
> > That was then though ..
> > this is now ..apparently that's a completely lost art , from what I
> > gather.
> >
> > Pre-computer people would just figure stuff out.  Wasn't hard either.
> > People were taught to build things with their hands and brains too,
> > starting before they were 10 years old often.
> > Back then.
> > Before everything was electronic, plastic, and disposable, and became
> > obsolete in 4 years anyway.
> > 'fixing stuff' ...what an odd ancient concept.
> >
> >
> >  On 7/8/2013 7:08 PM, Tom Carchrae wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Mike and Dennis.
> >
> > I got a chance to look at it today.  The calliper seems a bit stuck on
> > that side, certainly compared to the other front wheel which spins for
> > much longer.  I loosened the bleeder and it didn't get any easier.  A
> > bit of tapping on the pad made it a little looser.
> >
> > I'll try and remove the brake pad on that wheel tomorrow and give it a
> > clean out.  It is all a bit rusty/crusty in there.  I guess I may need
> > to take the calliper off and replace/rebuild.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:11 PM, Mike Riley <mkriley@fuse.net>
> <mkriley@fuse.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >  the brake pedal going soft was from WATER boiling in the brake fluid
> > and the sticking cliper also.
> > CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID NOW! if your lucky you may have gotten  it in
> time.
> > mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>