it may be that some members don't really want to sleuth and think..
they just want a quick solution.

Basally of course, it is a 'blockage or leakage of fluids or electrons.'

I would consider the ign switch as headlights do not work untilthat X
voltage comes out of the ign sw.
- a very Common failure mode.

with 12 v. test light, a jumper wire or two ..
volt meter..shouldn't be impossible or'that hard' to track down.

I would also Visually inspect for things like a main wire pulled off the
back of the fuse box.

Contrary to common practice..*The* first thing to do is just LOOK very
carefully ..
eyeball things ...a great first step usually !

either that or 'smell' ....look first though.

now back to thinking about boats and multi-hull sailboats~ !

S.

On 7/21/2013 4:04 PM, David Beierl wrote:
> Dear John, David,
>
> At 03:06 PM 7/21/2013, David Clarkson wrote:
>> switch got fried. Is there an easy way to test this or does anyone
>> else have any suggestions? I think it highly
>
> The easy way to test it is to get out your voltmeter and follow the
> wiring diagram around.  Seriously, guys, you're there on the ground
> with the problem and we're not.
>
> You need +12 on the 30 terminals of the relays.  That +12 has to get
> from the relay 87 terminals to the headlights.   On the ground side
> you have to *not* have +12.  The dimmer switch has to supply +12 to
> the relay 86 terminals, and the 85 terminals have to be grounded (or
> vise versa).
>
> The connections have to be good.  The wires have to not be cut. The
> fuses have to be not fused.
>
> The dimmer switch gets its power from an alternate (unswitched)
> source when you pull the stalk to flash the high beams.
>
> That's really all there is, and we can guess about it all night to no
> profit.  Go thou outside and measure.
>
> Yours,
> David
>