I recently installed Dansk front and rear, plus collector, pipe on my syncro. Terrible fit where the flanges meet at the collector. The pipe flanges are not on the same plane, rather they are angled back, like a dihedral. I tried stacking gaskets but no luck, still leaked. I would have to grind off a fair bit of the pipe flanges to make them coplanar. I'm toying with the idea of oxy-acetylene persuasion but probably will try machining an angled "gasket" from mild steel. Meanwhile I used the tube of goop David mentioned (Kleen-flo brand) and a little bit of rolled up ss mesh to fill the gap. Then a bent strip of ss plate to hole the mesh in place and the strip held in place by 2 right angled brackets attached to the flange bolts.

A real kludge if there ever was one. I'm really annoyed by the bad fit of the pipes. 

alistair

On 2013-07-21, at 9:57 AM, David Beierl wrote:

> At 12:26 PM 7/21/2013, Edward Maglott wrote:
>> Ahh, that sounds like what I need.  I'll read the directions but
>> what is the preferred method of application?  Goop it up, assemble
>> and let harden?
> 
> Pretty much.  Once it's had a little time you idle the engine for a
> while to bake it.  It sets up rock hard.
> 
>> Iron wire as in steel wool?
> 
> I was thinking more like .050-.075 soft iron wire.  I used to have a
> roll of wire used for attaching cyclone fencing to posts that was
> very nice, like thin coat hanger stock but softer.  Closest I've come
> lately is somewhat thinner brass wire from Home Depot.  You use it
> when patching to bridge gaps that the cement would blow out of by
> itself.  If a gasket's blown out the side, for example, you can stuff
> some cement in sideways and then wrap some wire around the
> edge.  It's not a permanent fix but it can last surprisingly well,
> many months sometimes.  Little leaks can mess up your oxygen sensor
> feedback, so you have to either fix them immediately or disconnect
> the sensor until they're fixed.
> 
> Yrs,
> d