Now that makes sense ~ but maybe only because that is the way I was
educated about EngineBreakIn back 1960.

Over time, due to an OpenMind, further education & advances in
Technology I have adjusted that Eng'BreakIn scenario to go something
like this ~

For an H2OBoxerEng' for example ~

Conventional/Dino 5w30          ~       1st Hour ~ then drain it                        1000-3000RPM ~
Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long

Conventional/Dino 5w30          ~       0 - 1000 Miles ~ then drain it          Not over
4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long

Conventional/Dino 5w30          ~       1000 - 2000 Miles ~ then drain it               Not over
4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long

Conventional/Dino 5w40          ~       2000 - 4000 Miles ~ then drain it               Not over
4000RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long

Conventional/Dino 5w40          ~       4000 - 7000 Miles ~ then drain it               Not over
4400RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long

Conventional/Dino 5w40          ~       7000 - 10000 Miles ~ then drain it      Not over
4800RPM ~ Trying not to stay @ any 1 RPM for vary long

FullSynthetic 0w40 or 5w40              ~       10000 - 14000 & every 4K after that
until OilPressureGauge tells me I might want to think about a *w50

                                                        or an Eng'Rebuild

        I find ~ HighlyIllogical ~ the notion that it is OK to fire up an
Eng' that has been sitting for a year with an UnknownLubricant in it's
OilPan which most probably in that year may have gathered up some H2O
& who knows what sort of nasty acids, while it is not OK to drain that
potentially nasty stuff (which is possibly mostly sitting in the
bottom of the OilPan) & put in a "FlushLube" & deal with the TinyBit
of it that might be left in the system mixing with the GoodStuff that
you put in an hour or 2 later.

                                                                                        ORR ~ DeanB

On 28 Jul , 2013, at 10:22 AM, JRodgers wrote:

> In 1999, the engine in my '88 GL  burned a piston - melted a hole
> through it, scored the cylinder walls, damaged the head, put chunks of
> metal into the crankcase. When torn down - it could be seen it was a
> mess. A local trusted re-builder happened to have a 2.1L he had just
> finished rebuilding so I bought it. His instructions were followed for
> startup and break in. A straight 30 wt oil was used. The engine was
> run
> at idle until warm, then cycled up and down from idle to 1500 and back
> to idle. This was every few minutes. After two hours of this -
> watching
> the engine closely - it was shut down and the oil drained, a new
> filter
> installed, along with 15W50 oil. I drove it for 500 miles locally - no
> extended high speed runs - mostly 30 to 50 mph. At 500 miles changed
> the
> oil and filter. After that - I drove it at speeds up to 65 for 15 - 20
> min at a time, and at the 1000 mile mark after the initial startup -
> changed oil and filter again. Then drove normally there after. This
> was
> in year 2000. I have never had any trouble on the internals of this
> engine since the rebuilt. While cost is always a factor - investment
> in
> the oil and the filters used to get the engine properly broken in was
> small for having an engine that would get a good start on a full life.
>
> John
>
> On 7/27/2013 11:49 AM, Paul Rogers wrote:
>> Howdy, I'm preparing for starting up, hopefully, my new to me
>> motor. According to the seller it has around 900 miles on it. But
>> it's been sitting around for a while. I know it's been over 1 year
>> minimum. Long term I'm going to use Mobil 1 but I'm thinking for
>> the initial start up using something less spendy in the event
>> something doesn't go as planned. I'd really hate to waste $30 plus $
>> $ of the Mobil 1. Any thoughts on this matter would be gratefully
>> appreciated. Wish me luck.
>> Paul in Tracy
>> I don't think it matters but the motor is a 2.1
>>
>> Sent from my iPlace
>>