

| Subject: | Re: nuts vs head gasket job |
| From: | Scott Daniel |
| Date: | Wed, 4 Sep 2013 18:25:21 -0700 |
PS to my last post. Make sure it's not the blue pressure cap. Try another one. They are notoriously flakey sometimes. On 9/4/2013 4:37 PM, Jim Felder wrote: > The head bolts and the heads do two things simultaneously, and do only one > of them very well. > > They hold the aluminum ring that serves as a true head gasket; that is, > that gasket confines the compression gases to within the cylinder, without > leaking it to the outside world. The other thing that is going on is that > the head also squeezes a rubber gasket between the head and the water > jacket on the block. This is imprecise. Normally, the compression head > gaskets do not fail very often. That is not true of the outer water gasket > which is held in place by the same head bolts. Think of it s a circle > (actually two circles on each side) of metal, with very precise clamping > pressure to hold in the combustion gasses, surrounded by a rubber gasket > which deteriorates, holding in the coolant. > > Guess which is going to go first? > > Yep, the rubber. If your head bolts are tight enough to contain the > combustion gasses, but you are leaking water, you are not going to affect > the rubber more than a thousandths or two by tightening the already tight > bolts holding the compression gaskets in place. If you are leaking coolant, > it is because your rubber gaskets have a breech somewhere, not because > there is not enough pressure on them. > > It always makes me feel better to go through the procedure or tightening > the bolts as you suggest, but, in the end, you will have to pull the heads > and replace the outer rubber gaskets. > > Jim > > > On Wed, Sep 4, 2013 at 11:54 AM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote: > >> I've put this off long enough. I got a few trips from my van this summer, >> but on the last day I drove it, it backed up the coolant in the reservoir >> (behind licence plate) three times in one day. I would pull over when the >> blinking low-coolant light turned on, drain the coolant out into a bottle, >> start the vehicle, open the hot pressurized tank, and pour the coolant back >> where it belonged. >> >> Yesterday I took the valve covers off and used a torque wrench to inspect >> the tightness of the nuts on the heads - well, all the easy to get to nuts >> (so all but the two behind the air intake - I have only removed the air >> filter box so far). >> >> I have only done one side so far, but I found one of the bolts in the >> centre of the head to be slightly under spec (37lb). I recall Dennis Hayes >> saying (email below) that this managed to solve head gasket symptoms 50% of >> the time if done soon enough. I doubt I have been soon enough, but how >> does one tell. >> >> I am prepared to do the head removal but boy would I be happy if it was as >> simple as tightening some nuts. Would I be overly hopeful to think that >> this minimal nut tightening this late would save me having to remove the >> heads? >> >> Tom >> >> 84 Vanagon >> >> >> >> >> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> One problem with relying on the sniffer tests is that they are looking >> for >>> un-burned hydrocarbons. In order for this to work in addition to the leak >>> you also need a combustion failure in the leaking cylinder. While cracked >>> or >>> loose heads may also cause a combustion issue you are in deep trouble by >>> the >>> point the sniffer tests pick it up. Keep in mind if those gasses can get >>> out >>> in some cases coolant can get into the cylinders. Antifreeze into the >>> cylinders and then into the oil can cause some real damage. Long before >>> antifreeze in the oil is visible the stuff becomes extremely corrosive >> and >>> can quickly destroy bearings along with crank and cam surfaces. It can >> also >>> destroy pistons by blowing out the tops and destroying the ring lands. >>> >>> If the engine has ever been overheated, (even before a rebuild) or has >> had >>> the heads off for any reason loose heads can be the cause. I probably >> have >>> a >>> better than 50-50 success rate in fixing these issues just be retourqing >>> the >>> heads if the problem has not been left so long that the head seals >> (inners) >>> or the tops of the cylinders have burned or pitted away. >>> >>> Dennis >>>
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