In the past I've used the 20' aluminum mast from my old Sunfish to break free the rear axle nuts on a T1...it just barely worked

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> On Sep 29, 2013, at 11:37 AM, Scott Daniel <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> wrote:
> 
> nice find.
> nowyou need a good long, about 3 feet, solid cheater bar to use with
> your two new tools.
> 
> even standing on the end of a very stout 3 1/2 long cheater bar
> sometimes in not enough to unscrew that mutha.
> I've had to heat a few of those nuts ( like one out of dozen or so ) ..
> in one extreme case ..even with heating ...the nut galled the threads on
> the stub axle taking the nut off.  Both nut and stub axle were ruined.
> That only happened once in dozens of years though.
> 
> it's good to take things like the rear axle nut and flange apart once in
> a great while ..make sure their not seized badly with rust etc.
> 
> scott
> 
> 
> 
>> On 9/29/2013 4:01 AM, Stephen Grisanti wrote:
>> I'm not looking forward to ever needing the 46mm socket for the big rear axle nut, but have always kept that measurement (and its standard 1 13/16" equivalent) in mind in case I trip over one, which I recently did.  Of course, after buying I find that NAPA stocks the non-metric one for $25 (on sale this week for $16!) but that Ohio antique mall was fairly boring until I hit a huge booth full of tools and the $5 find that is now living under the back seat of the '87 Westy with its new Harbor Freight 3/4" drive breaker bar.
>>