On 11/8/2013 8:56 AM, Craig Cowan wrote:
> I'd clean, degrease (brake cleaner, acetone, wax and grease remover, or simple green), then scuff with a red 3m pad (available at any hardware or auto store), then use the metal ready, allow it to fully dry, then paint.
>
> The metal ready I believe is an acid etch which microscopically abraids the surface so the paint can stick better.
>
> -craig
>
> On Nov 8, 2013, at 9:44 AM, David Bjorkman <ddbjorkman@VERIZON.NET> wrote:
>
>> Hi All;
>> I am about to do some POR15 application.  I have 2 very different surfaces.  I found, to my great surprise, that when the bus was painted, the sliding door mechanism cover was not removed and I have a layer of rust over that area, including the rail the roller runs in.  The other surface is a new rear (standard, not Rocky Mtn) bumper.  I want to put the POR 15 on the inside of the bumper before installation.
>> My question is should I use Metal Ready on either one of these surfaces before applying the POR?  As a matter of face, how should I prep both of these surfaces before applying the POR?  I am would like to start this project today, so any input would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks;
>> Dave B.
My experience with POR-15 is such that the more rust I can remove, the
better the finished job looks.  If your door track is "bubbling" with
rusty metal  and you add more paint to that surface, I'm wondering if
that will impede the sliding of the door when you are finished?.  As for
metal ready, Ilso use their Marine Clean before the mtal ready, although
I'm sure Simple Green would cover the first step just as well.  Be sure
to wear exam gloves as that paint doesn't wan to come off bare skin!!
It's also a real bear to sand after it's cured.

YMMV

DM&FS