I first saw the connector board on a German website, can�t recall the url right now, but David must have seen it too and realized what a great product it is.

The pin/contact spacing on the board is I think a standard spacing. So you could find a board and surface mount terminal strips and make your own. But the pre made one would be in the end less expensive ( I think it is 50 bucks) when you count in your time (and it has the added plus of labels for the 14 current paths) the pre made is the best option.

The only gotchya for the rewire is making a durable contact spot for the cluster lighting. Jarrett mentions adhesive copper foil in his blog post and I have tried that on a spare cluster. It is tricky to get just right and not to peel up with the tighter tolerance LED leash lights.

I�m at the point that if I take my cluster out one more time and do anything to it, the foil will be beyond repair. I�m making it a post Christmas priority to order a board from David and do the hardwire.

alistair

On Dec 4, 2013, at 6:49 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

> Thanks Jarrett for pointing out the Fast Forward "cockpit converter."  That
> looks like the easiest way to work your way to a complete replacement for
> the Mylar connector.  I've ordered one.
> 
> I've soldered several repairs to Mylar traces over the years, and I'm
> getting too fumble fingered now to keep from melting the whole mess.
> 
> A good winter project!
> 
> Stuart
> '85 Westy with a  really ugly Mylar strip