Thanks Derek, that option has been glaring at me and it is looking ever
more appealing.  This route looks pretty straightforward too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSBQTkPh_SQ  (until you drop the nut)

Tom

On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Derek Burgess <ddb.graphic@gmail.com>wrote:

> I know this isn't a direct answer to your question: but it's really alot
> easier to pull the pistons, get them into the cylinders on a bench and then
> install the two together.  I think pulling circlip's and piston pins much
> easier than trying to push a cylinder down over a piston still attached to
> the rod.  Use rags to clog the cylinder bores, do not want circlips flying
> down into the block.. "would not be funny" -Ben
>
>
> -Derek
> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
>
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I am trying to get the rings compressed (with pistons attached to rods
> and
> > engine in the car).  I am currently in practice mode - using the old
> rings
> > but I am finding, as warned, this is bloody tricky.  Not to mention it is
> > getting awfully cold outside - my hands nearly froze to the cylinders
> > yesterday (I am now storing them inside).
> >
> > Some observations:
> >
> > 1) I have a standard blue steel compressor: http://goo.gl/Eapbve  (which
> > has now been cut down as slim (width) as possible, thereby removing a
> strip
> > of steel that I could also use with a hose clamp) and it very nearly fits
> > (or maybe not) in the tight space between the water jacket and the
> sleeve.
> >  If you've used one in this scenario, where did you locate the compressor
> > ratchet mechanism when doing the last cylinder: top, bottom, side?  The
> > bottom seems to nearly work.
> >
> > 2) Even if I were to get the standard compressor to fit, how on earth
> will
> > I remove it?  I would need to unwind it all the way and slide it out I
> > guess?  Or unwind it so it fits around the cylinder?  I can see being
> able
> > to do that on the first cylinder, but that seems practically impossible
> on
> > the second one when there is no room.  If you've used the compressor (hi
> > Alistair!), which route did you go?
> >
> > 3) It seems that the VW specific ring tool ( http://goo.gl/RdkUEp )
> would
> > be much easier to remove (but looks like fun job to get it to compress).
> >  Alas, while it ranges from $5-10, it seems to be out of stock in Canada
> > and about $30-40 to ship.  Bah.  I'm considering making one from the
> steel
> > I cut from the compressor.
> >
> > 4) I really liked the zip tie then cut idea from Angus Gordon.  I have a
> > hose clamp, but tightening it would seem quite difficult.  I presume that
> > the way you would tighten a hose clamp is by going in the same access
> hole
> > (water pump/pipes holes) when you are doing the last cylinder?
> >
> > 5) It seems the sensible order to attach cylinders  would be first the
> two
> > on the rear/flywheel side and then follow by front/pulley side.
> >
> > I am considering dropping the engine, if only so I can (a) get better
> > access, (b) haul the engine inside to be warmer or god forbid (c) admit
> > defeat and take it to a shop who will roll eyes, cluck, and then likely
> > punish me for my arrogance.  I guess most VW mechanics are used to some
> of
> > that.
> >
> > As always, thanks in advance for any illumination.
> >
> > Tom
> >
>