Derek,

I have used a home-made rig like that, but with an inertia puller.

Jim

On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:37 PM, Derek Burgess <ddb.graphic@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tom,
> Im not suggesting you remove the rods.  I know some people say to, but to
> me, then you have a bearing job better left to when you split the case!
>
> Rods still attached.
> Remove the circlip's that hold the wrist pins.
> Then remove the wrist pins using a tool like this
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/nzp43gekwjteg5y/photo.JPG
>
> Ignore the fact that the piston/rod are out of the case in this photo, it
> can be done with them in the case.
>
> I've seen it called a piston pin puller, the Bentley actually shows a
> special VW tool to use, but I have never seen one in the wild- I made the
> one in my photo from Home Depot parts- It works, I have used it twice now.
>
>
> -Derek
> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 2:12 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Derek, that option has been glaring at me and it is looking ever
> > more appealing.  This route looks pretty straightforward too:
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSBQTkPh_SQ  (until you drop the nut)
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Derek Burgess <ddb.graphic@gmail.com
> >wrote:
> >
> >> I know this isn't a direct answer to your question: but it's really alot
> >> easier to pull the pistons, get them into the cylinders on a bench and
> >> then
> >> install the two together.  I think pulling circlip's and piston pins
> much
> >> easier than trying to push a cylinder down over a piston still attached
> to
> >> the rod.  Use rags to clog the cylinder bores, do not want circlips
> flying
> >> down into the block.. "would not be funny" -Ben
> >>
> >>
> >> -Derek
> >> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
> >>
> >>
> >> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Dear List,
> >> >
> >> > I am trying to get the rings compressed (with pistons attached to rods
> >> and
> >> > engine in the car).  I am currently in practice mode - using the old
> >> rings
> >> > but I am finding, as warned, this is bloody tricky.  Not to mention it
> >> is
> >> > getting awfully cold outside - my hands nearly froze to the cylinders
> >> > yesterday (I am now storing them inside).
> >> >
> >> > Some observations:
> >> >
> >> > 1) I have a standard blue steel compressor: http://goo.gl/Eapbve(which
> >> > has now been cut down as slim (width) as possible, thereby removing a
> >> strip
> >> > of steel that I could also use with a hose clamp) and it very nearly
> >> fits
> >> > (or maybe not) in the tight space between the water jacket and the
> >> sleeve.
> >> >  If you've used one in this scenario, where did you locate the
> >> compressor
> >> > ratchet mechanism when doing the last cylinder: top, bottom, side?
>  The
> >> > bottom seems to nearly work.
> >> >
> >> > 2) Even if I were to get the standard compressor to fit, how on earth
> >> will
> >> > I remove it?  I would need to unwind it all the way and slide it out I
> >> > guess?  Or unwind it so it fits around the cylinder?  I can see being
> >> able
> >> > to do that on the first cylinder, but that seems practically
> impossible
> >> on
> >> > the second one when there is no room.  If you've used the compressor
> (hi
> >> > Alistair!), which route did you go?
> >> >
> >> > 3) It seems that the VW specific ring tool ( http://goo.gl/RdkUEp )
> >> would
> >> > be much easier to remove (but looks like fun job to get it to
> compress).
> >> >  Alas, while it ranges from $5-10, it seems to be out of stock in
> Canada
> >> > and about $30-40 to ship.  Bah.  I'm considering making one from the
> >> steel
> >> > I cut from the compressor.
> >> >
> >> > 4) I really liked the zip tie then cut idea from Angus Gordon.  I
> have a
> >> > hose clamp, but tightening it would seem quite difficult.  I presume
> >> that
> >> > the way you would tighten a hose clamp is by going in the same access
> >> hole
> >> > (water pump/pipes holes) when you are doing the last cylinder?
> >> >
> >> > 5) It seems the sensible order to attach cylinders  would be first the
> >> two
> >> > on the rear/flywheel side and then follow by front/pulley side.
> >> >
> >> > I am considering dropping the engine, if only so I can (a) get better
> >> > access, (b) haul the engine inside to be warmer or god forbid (c)
> admit
> >> > defeat and take it to a shop who will roll eyes, cluck, and then
> likely
> >> > punish me for my arrogance.  I guess most VW mechanics are used to
> some
> >> of
> >> > that.
> >> >
> >> > As always, thanks in advance for any illumination.
> >> >
> >> > Tom
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
>