Right, sorry. I forgot to mention the part about wedging the pistons stable
to prevent wallowing out the bearings on the crank.

Jim

On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 2:57 PM, KI4TLF <ki4tlf@gmail.com> wrote:

> When doing it in the case I prefer the screw type puller when it's in the
> engine.  I don't want the pounding on the bearings the inertia (slide
> hammer) puller will put on the bearings.
>
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Jim Felder
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 1:46 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: compressing piston rings in engine
>
> Derek,
>
> I have used a home-made rig like that, but with an inertia puller.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:37 PM, Derek Burgess <ddb.graphic@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Tom,
> > Im not suggesting you remove the rods.  I know some people say to, but
> > to me, then you have a bearing job better left to when you split the
> case!
> >
> > Rods still attached.
> > Remove the circlip's that hold the wrist pins.
> > Then remove the wrist pins using a tool like this
> > https://www.dropbox.com/s/nzp43gekwjteg5y/photo.JPG
> >
> > Ignore the fact that the piston/rod are out of the case in this photo,
> > it can be done with them in the case.
> >
> > I've seen it called a piston pin puller, the Bentley actually shows a
> > special VW tool to use, but I have never seen one in the wild- I made
> > the one in my photo from Home Depot parts- It works, I have used it twice
> now.
> >
> >
> > -Derek
> > 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 2:12 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks Derek, that option has been glaring at me and it is looking
> > > ever more appealing.  This route looks pretty straightforward too:
> > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSBQTkPh_SQ  (until you drop the nut)
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Derek Burgess
> > ><ddb.graphic@gmail.com
> > >wrote:
> > >
> > >> I know this isn't a direct answer to your question: but it's really
> > >> alot easier to pull the pistons, get them into the cylinders on a
> > >> bench and then install the two together.  I think pulling circlip's
> > >> and piston pins
> > much
> > >> easier than trying to push a cylinder down over a piston still
> > >> attached
> > to
> > >> the rod.  Use rags to clog the cylinder bores, do not want circlips
> > flying
> > >> down into the block.. "would not be funny" -Ben
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -Derek
> > >> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki"
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net>
> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > Dear List,
> > >> >
> > >> > I am trying to get the rings compressed (with pistons attached to
> > >> > rods
> > >> and
> > >> > engine in the car).  I am currently in practice mode - using the
> > >> > old
> > >> rings
> > >> > but I am finding, as warned, this is bloody tricky.  Not to
> > >> > mention it
> > >> is
> > >> > getting awfully cold outside - my hands nearly froze to the
> > >> > cylinders yesterday (I am now storing them inside).
> > >> >
> > >> > Some observations:
> > >> >
> > >> > 1) I have a standard blue steel compressor:
> > >> > http://goo.gl/Eapbve(which has now been cut down as slim (width)
> > >> > as possible, thereby removing a
> > >> strip
> > >> > of steel that I could also use with a hose clamp) and it very
> > >> > nearly
> > >> fits
> > >> > (or maybe not) in the tight space between the water jacket and
> > >> > the
> > >> sleeve.
> > >> >  If you've used one in this scenario, where did you locate the
> > >> compressor
> > >> > ratchet mechanism when doing the last cylinder: top, bottom, side?
> >  The
> > >> > bottom seems to nearly work.
> > >> >
> > >> > 2) Even if I were to get the standard compressor to fit, how on
> > >> > earth
> > >> will
> > >> > I remove it?  I would need to unwind it all the way and slide it
> > >> > out I guess?  Or unwind it so it fits around the cylinder?  I can
> > >> > see being
> > >> able
> > >> > to do that on the first cylinder, but that seems practically
> > impossible
> > >> on
> > >> > the second one when there is no room.  If you've used the
> > >> > compressor
> > (hi
> > >> > Alistair!), which route did you go?
> > >> >
> > >> > 3) It seems that the VW specific ring tool ( http://goo.gl/RdkUEp
> > >> > )
> > >> would
> > >> > be much easier to remove (but looks like fun job to get it to
> > compress).
> > >> >  Alas, while it ranges from $5-10, it seems to be out of stock in
> > Canada
> > >> > and about $30-40 to ship.  Bah.  I'm considering making one from
> > >> > the
> > >> steel
> > >> > I cut from the compressor.
> > >> >
> > >> > 4) I really liked the zip tie then cut idea from Angus Gordon.  I
> > have a
> > >> > hose clamp, but tightening it would seem quite difficult.  I
> > >> > presume
> > >> that
> > >> > the way you would tighten a hose clamp is by going in the same
> > >> > access
> > >> hole
> > >> > (water pump/pipes holes) when you are doing the last cylinder?
> > >> >
> > >> > 5) It seems the sensible order to attach cylinders  would be
> > >> > first the
> > >> two
> > >> > on the rear/flywheel side and then follow by front/pulley side.
> > >> >
> > >> > I am considering dropping the engine, if only so I can (a) get
> > >> > better access, (b) haul the engine inside to be warmer or god
> > >> > forbid (c)
> > admit
> > >> > defeat and take it to a shop who will roll eyes, cluck, and then
> > likely
> > >> > punish me for my arrogance.  I guess most VW mechanics are used
> > >> > to
> > some
> > >> of
> > >> > that.
> > >> >
> > >> > As always, thanks in advance for any illumination.
> > >> >
> > >> > Tom
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>