

| Subject: | Re: compressing piston rings in engine |
| From: | JRodgers |
| Date: | Tue, 10 Dec 2013 08:29:44 -0600 |
Dennis, I know the bottom end of the WBX is heck for stout - so mostly no need to tear into it - but if heads must come off for whatever reason - assuming some mileage on the engine - that's a good time to just go ahead for a ring job and water pump replacement? Don't fool with head job only? Thanks, John On 12/9/2013 4:46 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote: > Please don't use a slide hammer to pull the piston pins. You really need the > reamer to break the carbon ridge in the pin bore. On the waterboxers the > pins can slide right out. > > If the oil control rings are the three piece type you really need to pull > the pistons and insert from the top of the cylinders. Too risky to get those > in. If the older cast type oil controls rings are used you should be able to > work the rings in while sliding the cylinder over the top. A thin steel band > can be fabed and pinched together with needle nose vise grips to get the > rings started and ten pulled out before pushing the cylinder all the way > down. I just now plan to pull the pistons whenever the heads come off. Only > adds a few hours to the job and gives a reason to replace the water pump. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > Jim Felder > Sent: Monday, December 9, 2013 2:46 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: compressing piston rings in engine > > Derek, > > I have used a home-made rig like that, but with an inertia puller. > > Jim > > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:37 PM, Derek Burgess <ddb.graphic@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Tom, >> Im not suggesting you remove the rods. I know some people say to, but >> to me, then you have a bearing job better left to when you split the case! >> >> Rods still attached. >> Remove the circlip's that hold the wrist pins. >> Then remove the wrist pins using a tool like this >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/nzp43gekwjteg5y/photo.JPG >> >> Ignore the fact that the piston/rod are out of the case in this photo, >> it can be done with them in the case. >> >> I've seen it called a piston pin puller, the Bentley actually shows a >> special VW tool to use, but I have never seen one in the wild- I made >> the one in my photo from Home Depot parts- It works, I have used it twice > now. >> >> >> -Derek >> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki" >> >> >> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 2:12 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote: >> >>> Thanks Derek, that option has been glaring at me and it is looking >>> ever more appealing. This route looks pretty straightforward too: >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSBQTkPh_SQ (until you drop the nut) >>> >>> Tom >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 10:48 AM, Derek Burgess >>> <ddb.graphic@gmail.com >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I know this isn't a direct answer to your question: but it's really >>>> alot easier to pull the pistons, get them into the cylinders on a >>>> bench and then install the two together. I think pulling circlip's >>>> and piston pins >> much >>>> easier than trying to push a cylinder down over a piston still >>>> attached >> to >>>> the rod. Use rags to clog the cylinder bores, do not want circlips >> flying >>>> down into the block.. "would not be funny" -Ben >>>> >>>> >>>> -Derek >>>> 1990 GL Automatic "Vikki" >>>> >>>> >>>> On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Tom Carchrae <tom@carchrae.net> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Dear List, >>>>> >>>>> I am trying to get the rings compressed (with pistons attached to >>>>> rods >>>> and >>>>> engine in the car). I am currently in practice mode - using the >>>>> old >>>> rings >>>>> but I am finding, as warned, this is bloody tricky. Not to >>>>> mention it >>>> is >>>>> getting awfully cold outside - my hands nearly froze to the >>>>> cylinders yesterday (I am now storing them inside). >>>>> >>>>> Some observations: >>>>> >>>>> 1) I have a standard blue steel compressor: >>>>> http://goo.gl/Eapbve(which has now been cut down as slim (width) >>>>> as possible, thereby removing a >>>> strip >>>>> of steel that I could also use with a hose clamp) and it very >>>>> nearly >>>> fits >>>>> (or maybe not) in the tight space between the water jacket and >>>>> the >>>> sleeve. >>>>> If you've used one in this scenario, where did you locate the >>>> compressor >>>>> ratchet mechanism when doing the last cylinder: top, bottom, side? >> The >>>>> bottom seems to nearly work. >>>>> >>>>> 2) Even if I were to get the standard compressor to fit, how on >>>>> earth >>>> will >>>>> I remove it? I would need to unwind it all the way and slide it >>>>> out I guess? Or unwind it so it fits around the cylinder? I can >>>>> see being >>>> able >>>>> to do that on the first cylinder, but that seems practically >> impossible >>>> on >>>>> the second one when there is no room. If you've used the >>>>> compressor >> (hi >>>>> Alistair!), which route did you go? >>>>> >>>>> 3) It seems that the VW specific ring tool ( http://goo.gl/RdkUEp >>>>> ) >>>> would >>>>> be much easier to remove (but looks like fun job to get it to >> compress). >>>>> Alas, while it ranges from $5-10, it seems to be out of stock in >> Canada >>>>> and about $30-40 to ship. Bah. I'm considering making one from >>>>> the >>>> steel >>>>> I cut from the compressor. >>>>> >>>>> 4) I really liked the zip tie then cut idea from Angus Gordon. I >> have a >>>>> hose clamp, but tightening it would seem quite difficult. I >>>>> presume >>>> that >>>>> the way you would tighten a hose clamp is by going in the same >>>>> access >>>> hole >>>>> (water pump/pipes holes) when you are doing the last cylinder? >>>>> >>>>> 5) It seems the sensible order to attach cylinders would be >>>>> first the >>>> two >>>>> on the rear/flywheel side and then follow by front/pulley side. >>>>> >>>>> I am considering dropping the engine, if only so I can (a) get >>>>> better access, (b) haul the engine inside to be warmer or god >>>>> forbid (c) >> admit >>>>> defeat and take it to a shop who will roll eyes, cluck, and then >> likely >>>>> punish me for my arrogance. I guess most VW mechanics are used >>>>> to >> some >>>> of >>>>> that. >>>>> >>>>> As always, thanks in advance for any illumination. >>>>> >>>>> Tom >>>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> >
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