Ditto on the ignition switch ..
and I like the stronger '48' diesel vanagon battery ..
fits just fine, has more oomph ...
and I may never go in a Walmart the rest of my life and don't recommend
them at all for various reasons.

I buy Kneckt's Auto Parts 48 batteries ... a few a year for my fleet even ..
two-year out right replacement .....about $ 85 ...they work just great.

I also don't recommend running out and buying a battery unless there are
good reasons to.
This is a very common............ 'I think I'll through parts at it and
see if this fixes it'   'repair.'

a simple hydrometer costs like 3 bucks and can identify a weak cell easily.
if you have a battery with a weak cell or two ..and it won't hold a
charge for say ...10 days..
it's due to be replaced.
   A load tester is nice too.
if you work on your own cars,  you need a battery charger and a load tester.
Load tester is $ 55 at HF and mine has been perfect for 5 yrs now.

if a battery sits discharged much ..it suffers real harm.
If it's been dead a while and will not take a charge on your battery
charger..then it's junk.
you need at least a 10 amp charger..
a 2/10/50 is much better ....maybe 70 bucks or so.

for sure ..check charging voltage with engine running ..
a 'must do' ...check at altnernator post and battery ..they should be
pretty close ..with in a few tenths of a volt..
if there's say .8 volts less at the battery ...that's not good.

I consider 13.8 volts to be standarnd-minimum OK charging voltage.

scott

On 12/20/2013 7:27 AM, Ken Wilford wrote:
> Tony,
>
> Sounds like the ignition switch as Jim has stated.  Or it could be an
> alternator/battery issue or both.  I would get a new battery and a new
> ignition switch.  You can drop the lower column cover, unplug the old
> ignition switch from the harness and plug the new one into the harness
> without installing it.  Use a small screw driver to turn it in the slot
> that is on the side that is away from the plug just like you would be
> turning the key in the ignition normally.  If the van starts right up
> and is back to normal then that is the problem, get it home and install
> the new switch.  If not, install the new battery (group 41 from
> Wal-mart).  Now try starting it.  Even if the alternator is toast it
> should start up and be able to be driven for an hour before getting so
> low that it kills the engine again (try not to run any other lights or
> fans if you can help it).  Use a volt meter at the battery to see if the
> alternator is putting out.  It should be doing at least 13.5volts.  You
> may have to rev the engine above 2000 rpms to get it to kick in.
>
> Let us know what you find out.
>
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
> PS
> Welcome to the Vanagon List!
>
> On 12/20/2013 1:46 AM, Anthony Boscolo wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> This is my first post so I will try to be as clear as possible. I
>> have an
>> 1986 Syncro GL.
>> Driving up to the mountains tonight the head lights went out...about 20
>> seconds later the engine died...the key is stuck in the ignition and
>> if i
>> turn it the dash lights (bat,ox, etc...) don't respond.  There is no
>> noise
>> at all if I turn the key.
>>
>> At the time I had the rear heater on full, and was running the
>> high-beams...and I may have had the front heater/fan on as well.
>>
>> Any thoughts on what went wrong? fuse?  if so I can't figure out
>> which one.
>>
>> In the meantime, the Van is on the side of the road on SR 410 just
>> before
>> the turn up to crystal mt. If you see her, wish her good thoughts.
>>
>> Thanks for the help
>>
>> --
>> Anthony Boscolo | 206.794.1727 | abosail@gmail.com
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6937 - Release Date:
>> 12/20/13
>>
>>
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
> Phone: 856-327-4936
> Fax: 856-327-2242
>