As long as you swap the timing clamps along with the distributors you
should be able to move them back and forth without worrying about the
timing.

Leave the clamps tight, make sure they are both tight on the dizzys
before you start by tightening the 10mm clamp nut. Pull the caps, turn
the engines to the pulley timing marks making sure the rotors point to
the marks on the dizzy rim. Then remove the 13mm nut that holds the
clamp to the engine block. Then lift the dizzy with clamp up and out of
the engine.

The end of the dizzy shaft is keyed but the key is shallow. Make sure
you get the dizzy all the way down against the engine block when you
re-insert it. Gently rock the rotor back and forth as you seat the
dizzy. When the key engages you should feel it when you can't rock the
rotor.

Mark

JRodgers wrote:
> Kinda groping in the blind here and have a couple of questions. Hope
> someone can explain.
>
> I need to swap a dead distributor for a live one - and I want to be sure
> the timing is right when I do it. As I understand, the engine should be
> turned by hand to the point where the 2nd timing mark is at top - ie the
> split in the case - which would be top dead center. This should bring
> the rotor finger center line in line with a mark on the distributor
> housing.
>
> For the engine from which I am pulling a known good distributor - I
> follow the same procedure. 2nd pulley mark at the split - distributor
> finger should be at the distributor housing mark. That being the case -
> the swap should be straight across - and any timing variances should be
> minor, requiring only a little tweaking  - maybe.
>
> Have I got this right? Or am I missing something?  The real issue is a
> dead hall sensor and given what I have on hand - this is the quickest
> way to getting my rig back up and running. I'll deal with a new Hall
> sensor later.
>
> As always, all input is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>